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Tekstil Baskı Desenlerinde Renk Ögesi Üzerine Bir Araştırma (1960 – 1970) Skip to content Yıl 2024, Cilt: 9 Sayı: 2, 114 – 139, 20.06.2024
Hande Bilvar , Özlem Uslu
Öz The exploration of early human societies’ engagement with surface embellishment and adornment reveals a profound connection between creativity and the fulfillment of basic needs, stretching back to prehistoric times. This study delves into the ancient practices of coloring and patterning, tracing their origins to the earliest human endeavors to express themselves through art. The archaeological evidence, including cave wall drawings, stone carvings, and colored textiles, serves as a testament to our ancestors’ innate drive to manifest their inner thoughts and emotions into tangible forms. These early artistic expressions, utilizing naturally sourced dyes and pigments from plants, roots, fruits, and minerals, underline the significance of color in human history, dating back to the Neolithic Period. This historical context sets the stage for an in-depth investigation into the role of color in textile print designs, particularly during the transformative period of 1960 to 1970. This era, marked by socio-economic changes, technological advancements, and a surge in artistic and cultural dynamism, witnessed significant evolution in textile design and color application. The study aims to explore how these factors converged to revolutionize textile printing, influencing both the technical aspects of color application and the aesthetic considerations in design. The impact of various artistic movements on fashion and design innovation is a critical area of focus, reflecting on how these trends informed and enriched textile patterns and color usage. The literature review conducted in this study meticulously examines the interplay between color, shape, and narrative within the historical context, drawing insights from a range of documents and artifacts. By concentrating on the decade of 1960 to 1970, the research highlights a pivotal moment in the history of textile design, characterized by a burst of creativity, experimentation, and the breaking of traditional norms. This period’s examination offers valuable perspectives on the evolution of printing techniques, the diversification of design approaches, and the broader cultural and social implications of these changes. In particular, the study scrutinizes the process of color selection, the communicative power of patterns, and the aesthetics’ role in shaping fashion trends and consumer preferences. The findings underscore the critical importance of color in the creative processes employed by artists and designers, emphasizing its influence on the fashion and textile industry’s development. By analyzing the transformative use of color in textile designs during this dynamic period, the research sheds light on the broader cultural, social, and technological factors that drove innovation in the fashion industry. The study ultimately reveals the enduring impact of these developments on contemporary design practices, offering insights into the ways in which color and pattern continue to serve as essential tools for artistic expression and cultural communication in the textile and fashion sectors.
Anahtar Kelimeler Textile, Color, Print, Pattern, Print&Pattern, Emilio Pucci, 1960’s
Kaynakça Armstrong, M. (2014). Swinging Britain: Fashion in the 1960s. Shire Publishing. Cheskin, L. (1957). How to predict what people will buy. Liveright Puclishin Corp. Durrani, M., & Niinimäki, K. (2021). Colour matters: An exploratory study of the role of colour in clothing consumption choices. Clothing Cultures, 8(2), 219-241. http://dx.doi.org/10.1386/cc_00054_1 Germaner, S. (1997). 1960 sonrası sanat – Akımlar, eğilimler, gruplar, sanatçılar. Kabalca Yayınevi. Gezicioğlu, F. Y., & Uslu, Ö. (2019). Op art sanat akımının giysi modasına etkisi. İdil, 63, 1549-1561. doi: 10.7816/idil-08-63-12 Hann, M. A., & Powers, K. (2009). Tibor reich-a textile designer working in stratford. Textile History, 40(2), 212-228. https://doi.org/10.1179/004049609×12504376351506 Humbert, C. (1975). Ornamente, Verlag Georg D. W. Callwey. İci, S. (2019). Gençlerin kıyafet tercihleri üzerine sosyolojik bir araştırma: Cumhuriyet Üniversitesi örneği (Yayın no. 595073) [Yüksek Lisans Tezi, Sivas Cumhuriyet Üniversitesi]. https://acikerisim.cumhuriyet.edu.tr/xmlui/bitstream/handle/20.500.12418/12054/595073.pdf İpşiroğlu, N., & İpşiroğlu, M. (1993). Sanatta devrim. (3. baskı) Remzi Kitabevi. Jenny Balfour, P. (2011). Indigo: Egyptian mummies to blue jeans. Firefly Books. Kafka, F. J. (1955). Linoleum block printing. McKnight & McKnight Publishing Company. Kuehni, R. G. & Schwarz, A. (2008). Color ordered: A survey of color systems from antiquity to the present. Oxford University Press. Kumar, J. S. (2017). ‘The psychology of colour influences consumers’ buying behaviour: A diagnostic study’, Ushus Journal of Business Management, 16(4), .1–13. https://doi: 10.12725/ujbm.41.1 Kerry, S. & Galloway, F. (2007). Twentieth century textiles: Neo-classicism to pop. Woodbridge: Antique Collectors' Club. McCracken, G. (1986). Culture and consumption: A theoretical account of the structure and movement of the cultural meaning of consumer goods. Journal of Consumer Research, 13(1), 71-84. Odabaşı, Y. (1999). Tüketim kültürü: Yetinen toplumdan tüketen topluma. Sistem Yayıncılık. Rolf, G. Kuehni & Schwarz, A. (2008). Color ordered: A survey of color systems from antiquity to the present. Oxford University Press. Read, H. (1981). Sanat ve toplum. Umran Yayınları. Schoeser, M. (2023). World textiles. Thames & Hudson. Tezel, Z. (2009). Yazmacılık sanatında desenlendirme teknikleri (Kalıp tekniğiyle ağaç baskı uygulama örneği). Gazi Üniversitesi Endüstriyel Sanatlar Eğitim Fakültesi Dergisi, 25, 27-40. Thoreson, N. A. (2016). British printed textiles of the 1970s: A material culture study [Doctoral dissertation, University of Minnesota]. Thoreson_umn_0130E_17874.pdf (7.804Mb application/pdf) Ware, D. & Stafford, M. (1974). An illustrated dictionary of ornament. George Allen & Unwin Ltd. Wengrow, D. (2011). Gods and monsters: Image and cognition in neolithic societies. Paléorient, 37(1), 153-163. https://www.jstor.org/stable/41496928 Yapp, N. (2005). Fotoğraflarla 20. yy. sosyal tarihi. Literatür Yayınları. Yunjeong, O. (2010). A study on the fashion design of Emilio Pucci-focusing on the 1960s. Journal of Fashion Business, 14(3), 64-74. Yörük, E. Y. (2019). Tekstil baskıcılığında teknolojiye bağlı değişen tasarım anlayışı (Yayın no. 607794) [Yüksek Lisans Tezi, Marmara Üniversitesi ]. https://avesis.marmara.edu.tr/yonetilen-tez/2e94d39a-9b07-4b93-a52c-1b26e34dc6f3/tekstil-baskiciliginda-teknolojiye-bagli-degisen-tasarim-anlayisi Yurt D. , Özpulat F. (2011). Günümüz baskı desenli kumaşlarında desen tarzları ve teknikleri. Akdeniz Sanat, 4 (7), 0-0.
Tekstil Baskı Desenlerinde Renk Ögesi Üzerine Bir Araştırma (1960 – 1970) Yıl 2024, Cilt: 9 Sayı: 2, 114 – 139, 20.06.2024
Hande Bilvar , Özlem Uslu
Öz Günümüzden binlerce yıl öncesine dayanan arkeolojik buluntular, insanoğlunun temel gereksinimlerinin yanı sıra düz yüzeyleri renklendirme ve desenlendirme konusundaki çabalarına işaret etmektedir. Renklendirme ve desenlendirme çabalarının tarih öncesi döneme kadar uzandığı bilinmektedir. Mağara duvarlarına çizdikleri resimler, taşlara kazıdıkları semboller ve tekstil ürünlerini renklendirmeleri, atalarımızın içgüdüsel bir şekilde imgeyi biçime dönüştürme ve kendini ifade etme gereksinimi duyduklarının bir göstergesi sayılmaktadır. Renklendirmelerde genellikle bitki yaprakları, kökleri ve meyvelerden elde ettikleri bitkisel kaynaklı doğal boyaları kullandıkları bilinmektedir. Aynı şekilde doğal kaynaklar olan, topraktaki bazı mineral ve pigmentler de kullanılmıştır. Bu renklendirmelerin başlangıç tarihi kesin olmamakla birlikte, Neolitik Dönem’den itibaren tekstillere uygulandığı düşünülmektedir. Bu araştırmanın amacı, tarihsel süreçte insanlığın yaşamında büyük önem taşıyan renk ögesini, baskı desenleri ile ilişkilendirerek incelemek ve desenlerde renklerin etkilerini ortaya koymaktır. Bu çalışma, özellikle 1960-1970 yılları arasında tekstil baskı desenlerinde renk kullanımını özel bir odak noktası olarak ele almaktadır. Bu dönemde, sosyo-ekonomik değişimler, teknolojik gelişmeler ve sanatın etkisi tekstil baskı desenlerindeki renk kullanımında önemli değişikliklerin yolunu açmıştır. Endüstriyel süreçlerdeki ilerlemeler ve teknolojik gelişmeler baskı tekniklerinde daha büyük çeşitlilik ve esneklik sağlamıştır. Aynı zamanda, 1960-1970 yılları, sanatsal ve kültürel açıdan hareketli ve dönüşüme şahit olunan bir dönem olarak da bilinmektedir. Sanat dünyasında ortaya çıkan farklı akımlar, moda ve tasarımda yaratıcılığın önünü açmıştır. Bu makale, Literatür taraması yapılarak, döneme ait desenler, renk, biçim ve kurgu bağlamında ele alınmış ve döküman analizi yöntemiyle gerçekleştirilmiştir. Renk kullanımlarına ve tekstil baskı desenlerinin gelişimine odaklanarak, çalışmada kullanılan dokümanlar 1960-1970 yıllarına ait baskı tasarımları ile sınırlandırılmıştır. Sonuç olarak, söz konusu dönemdeki tekstil baskı desenlerinde renk kullanımının nasıl evrildiğine ve değişikliklerin ne tür etkiler yarattığına değinilmektedir. Renk seçimi, desenlerin ifade gücü, estetik ve moda trendleri üzerindeki etkileri, kültürel ve sosyal bağlamda incelenmiştir. Sanatçıların ve tasarımcıların yaratım sürecinde renkleri nasıl kullandıkları, moda ve tekstil sektöründeki dönüşümde nasıl bir fark yarattığının önemi ortaya konmuştur.
Anahtar Kelimeler Tekstil, Renk, Baskı, Desen, Baskı Desen, Emilio Pucci, 1960’lar.
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Ayrıntılar Birincil Dil Türkçe Konular Güzel Sanatlar Bölüm Araştırma Makaleleri Yazarlar Hande Bilvar ÇUKUROVA ÜNİVERSİTESİ, GÜZEL SANATLAR FAKÜLTESİ, TEKSTİL VE MODA TASARIMI BÖLÜMÜ 0000-0003-3784-9254 Türkiye
Özlem Uslu Çukurova Üniversitesi 0000-0002-2645-9616 Türkiye
Erken Görünüm Tarihi 16 Haziran 2024 Yayımlanma Tarihi 20 Haziran 2024 Gönderilme Tarihi 14 Şubat 2024 Kabul Tarihi 14 Mayıs 2024 Yayımlandığı Sayı Yıl 2024 Cilt: 9 Sayı: 2
Kaynak Göster APA Bilvar, H., & Uslu, Ö. (2024). Tekstil Baskı Desenlerinde Renk Ögesi Üzerine Bir Araştırma (1960 – 1970). Uluslararası İnsan Ve Sanat Araştırmaları Dergisi, 9(2), 114-139.
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