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DERBEND Skip to content Dağıstan’da Hazar denizinin kuzeybatı sahilinde tarihî bir şehir ve liman.
Eski kaynaklara ve arkeolojik buluntulara göre kuruluşu İlkçağ’lara kadar iner. İlk yerleşme yerinin Hazar deniziyle Büyük Kafkas sıradağlarının yamaçları arasında bulunan bir kale olduğu sanılmaktadır. Burası V-VI. yüzyıllarda Sâsânîler tarafından kale-şehir haline getirilmiş, 428’de ise Sâsânî Şahı II. Yezdicerd’in kurduğu Arrân (Errân) merzübânlığının (sınır eyaleti) merkez şehri olmuştur.
Şehirden bahseden ilk Arap kaynakları, buranın Farslar tarafından “kapalı kapı, geçit, sınır karakolu” anlamına gelen “Derbend” adıyla anıldığını kaydettikleri gibi ayrıca burayı yine Arapça “kapı, kapılar” veya “karakol” mânasında “el-Bâb”, “el-Ebvâb” (Ya‘kūbî, s. 146; Belâzürî, s. 207-209), daha sonraları “Bâbülebvâb” ve “Bâbülhadîd” (demir kapı) adlarıyla da belirtmişlerdir. Muhtemelen bu sonuncusu, Arap fetihlerinden önce bölgenin kuzey taraflarına yerleşmiş bulunan Türk kavimlerinin burası için kullandıkları “Temür Kapıg / Demür Kapu”dan gelmektedir. Osmanlılar ise şehri Derbend veya daha yaygın olarak Demirkapı adıyla anmışlardır. Bu ad Ermeni tarihçileri tarafından da kullanılmıştır. Ayrıca eski Ermeni dilinde buraya Çor denildiği de bazı kaynaklarda yer almaktadır.
Bizans ve Ermeni kaynaklarına göre, son derece muhkem surlara sahip olmasına rağmen 627’de Herakleios’un müttefiki Hazarlar tarafından zaptedilen Derbend, bölgeye yönelik ilk Arap akınları sırasında muhtemelen 32’de (652-53) ele geçirildi. Araplar’la Hazarlar arasında 150 yıl süren mücadelelerde stratejik önemi büyük, kuvvetli bir istihkâm haline geldi. Nitekim Belâzürî, meşhur Arap kumandanlarından Mesleme b. Abdülmelik’in Hazar akınlarını önlemek için buraya Dımaşk civarından getirttiği 24.000 kişiyi yerleştirdiğini belirtir (Fütûḥ , s. 207). Bunlar Dımaşk, Humus, Kûfe ve Cezîreli olup her biri birer mahalle kurmuşlar, böylece şehir dört mahalleye ayrılmıştır. Ayrıca Arap hâkimiyeti döneminde şehrin uzunluğu ile meşhur surları esaslı bir şekilde tamir edildiği gibi kale ve civarında birçok cami, han, hamam, su kemeri vb. binalar yapılmış ve Derbend büyük, kalabalık bir şehir olmuştur. Şehir taştan yapılan iki uzun sur boyunca ve arada kalan alanda uzanıyor, boyu ve eni 3,5 kilometreyi buluyordu. Fakat sonraları yerleşme iki surun arasında kaldı. Makdisî’ye göre surlar mescid ve kulelerle teçhiz edilmişti. Kuzey tarafta büyük ve küçük iki kapı bulunuyor, bunlar Bâbülcihâd ve Bâbülimâre adlarıyla anılıyordu. Bunlardan Bâbülcihâd’a Kırklar Kapısı adı da verilmişti. Diğerine ise Taşkapı deniyordu. Ayrıca denize bakan tarafta da bazı kapılar vardı. Limanı fırtınaya ve düşman hücumlarına karşı korunmuş olup gemiler için dar bir geçit bırakılmıştı. Burası da bir tehlike anında zincirle kapatılırdı.
Kafkasya’da Abbâsî hâkimiyetinin zayıfladığı sıralarda Derbend, Arap asıllı Hâşimî hânedanının kurduğu emirliğin merkezi oldu (869). Çok geçmeden Azerbaycan ve Arrân’a hâkim olan Yûsuf b. Ebü’s-Sâc’ın (901-927) idaresi altına girdi. Yûsuf’un ölümünden sonra Hâşimîler bölgeye yeniden hâkim oldular. 1106 yılı civarında yazılmış olan Târîḫu’l-Bâb adlı eserden (kısaltılmış farklı bir nüshası Müneccimbaşı’nın Câmiʿu’d-düvel ’inde yer alır), Selçuk-Oğuz akınları sırasında Derbend ve güneyindeki bölgede Türk boylarının yerleştiği ve Selçuklular’ın siyasî üstünlüklerini kabul ettirdikleri anlaşılmaktadır.
1222’de ilk Moğol işgalinin ardından 1239’da doğrudan Moğol idaresi altına giren Derbend, XIII. yüzyıldan itibaren yavaş yavaş eski büyüklüğünü kaybetmeye başladıysa da stratejik bakımdan önemini hâlâ koruyordu. Bu yüzyılın sonlarında bölgeye hâkim olmaya başlayan İlhanlılar, Derbend Kalesi’ni ele geçirememekle birlikte etrafındaki dağlık arazide oturan aşiretleri ve Lezgiler’i kendi idareleri altına aldılar (Reşîdüddin, III, 147). Şehir İlhanlı-Altın Orda arasındaki mücadelelerde sürekli el değiştirdiği için tahribata uğradı ve Hazar denizinin en büyük ticaret limanı olma özelliğini büsbütün kaybetti. Nitekim bu karışık dönemlere kadar Hazar denizi çevresinden birçok tüccarın mal getirip götürdüğü limanı oldukça işlek bir ticarî faaliyete sahne oluyordu. Buradan ihraç edilen başlıca ürünleri dokuma, bez ve kök boyası teşkil ediyor, ayrıca esir ticareti de önemli miktarda gelir sağlıyordu. Fakat XIV. yüzyıldan itibaren ticaret sönmeye başladı. XV. yüzyılda burayı gören bir seyyahın ifadesine göre limanı artık eski önemini kaybetmişti. Şehrin ancak 1/6’sı meskûndu, denize inen mahalleler tamamıyla boşalmıştı. Ticaret daha emniyetli bir limana sahip olan Bakü’ye kaymaya başlamıştı.
Safevî Devleti’nin kurulup ve gelişmesi, Derbend’de yeni bir dönemin başlangıcını teşkil etti. Şah İsmâil 1509’da şehri zaptedip Rumlu oymaklarından birini buraya yerleştirdi. 1538’de Şirvan doğrudan Safevî hâkimiyetine girince Müskür ile birlikte Derbend Şirvan’a bağlı bir idarî bölge haline getirildi. Osmanlılar’dan ve Kırım hanından yardım alan bölgenin eski hâkimleri Şirvanşahlar’a mensup Kāsım Mirza, 1554’te Derbend ve Şemahi’yi ele geçirdiyse de bu uzun süreli olmadı. 1577 Nisanında Safevî idaresine karşı ayaklanan Sünnî şehir halkı Derbend Kalesi ile civarına hâkim olmuştu (Kırzıoğlu, s. 301-302). Bundan az sonra, Şirvanşahlar’a yardım gayesi de taşıyan 1578 seferi sırasında Osmanlılar bölgeyi tamamıyla zaptedince Derbend halkından yedi kişilik bir heyet 5 Ekim 1578’de Ereş’te bulunan Serdar Lala Mustafa Paşa’nın yanına giderek bağlılık arzettiler ve bir idarecinin tayinini istediler. Safevîler’le 1590’a kadar süren savaşlarda Derbend önemli bir Osmanlı askerî üssü durumundaydı. Şirvan muhafızlığına getirilen Özdemiroğlu Osman Paşa, 1579’dan 1583 sonbaharına kadar, Kuzey Azerbaycan ve Şirvan’da Safevîler’le yapılan mücadelede burayı askerî bir merkez olarak kullandı. 1607’ye kadar süren Osmanlı hâkimiyeti devrinde Derbend yedi sancaktan ibaret beylerbeyiliğin merkeziydi. Âlî Mustafa Efendi’ye göre Derbend eyaleti 1583’ten sonra Şaburan, Ahtı, Kuba, Müskür, Küre, Çırak ve Rustav sancaklarından meydana geliyordu (Kırzıoğlu, s. 305).
Derbend, kısa süreli Osmanlı hâkimiyetinin ardından yeniden Safevîler tarafından zaptedildi. I. Abbas, Osmanlılar’ın batıdaki mücadelelerinden faydalanarak Azerbaycan ve Şirvan’a karşı giriştiği seferlerden sonra (1603) Derbend’i alıp Bayat boylarından bir bölümünü buraya yerleştirdi. Müskür bölgesine ise Ustaclu oymaklarını nakletmişti. Karabağ ve Şirvan’ın zaptında önemli rol oynayan Ustaclu Kanber Bey, Derbend Kalesi’nin tamir ve tahkimi ile görevlendirildi (Sümer, s. 168). Bu tamirat sırasında kuzey ve güney surları arasında şehri üç kısma ayıran iki duvar yapılmış, surlar takviye edilmişti. Kalenin birçok kısmının Türkçe isimleri bu dönemin hâtırasını bugüne ulaştırır. Bunlar arasında Bayat Kapısı, Orta Kapı, Türkmen Kapısı, Çarçı Kapısı, Kırklar Kabristanlığı ve Kırklar Kapısı sayılabilir.
Şehri 1647’de gören Evliya Çelebi, burayı Demirkapı adıyla anarak bu ismin eski surlardaki kapılardan birinin demirden yapılmış olup uzun süre ayakta kalması dolayısıyla verildiğini kaydeder. Evliya Çelebi, Şefî‘ Han idaresinde bulunan şehrin surlarını ve kalesini ayrıntılı şekilde anlatarak kale içinde 1200 toprak örtülü ev, güney duvarına bitişik büyük bir saray, bunun yanında minaresi yıkılmış eski bir cami (Cuma Camii), ona yakın Osmanlı üslûbunu andıran mimarisiyle bir hamam, ayrıca doğuya açılan Kayık Kapısı civarında Özdemiroğlu Osman Paşa Camii ile hanları ve dükkânlarının yer aldığını belirtir. Şehrin varoş kısmında ise 1000 ev, birçok cami, han, hamam ve çarşıların bulunduğunu yazan Evliya Çelebi, ahalinin Sünnî-Şâfiî mezhebine mensup olduğunu, Çin’den, Orta Asya’dan, Rusya’dan birçok tüccarın ticaret için buraya geldiğini ve gümrük vergisinin önemli nisbetlere ulaştığını da ifade eder (Seyahatnâme , II, 306-312).
Derbend daha sonra Hazar kıyılarında faaliyet gösteren Ruslar’ın idaresi altına girdi. İran’ın içinde bulunduğu karışıklıktan istifade eden Rus Çarı I. Petro, 1722 Ağustosunda burayı işgal etti. 12 Eylül 1723’te Petersburg’da imzalanan antlaşma ile Derbend, Bakü ve Hazar denizinin güney kıyılarının büyük bölümü Rusya’ya bırakıldı. Fakat Osmanlılar’ın ve Kırım Hanlığı’nın Dağıstan’daki faaliyetlerinin yanı sıra İran’da merkezî idarenin güçlenmesi, iç karışıklıklar içindeki Rusya’yı 1735 Gence Antlaşması’nı imzalamaya zorladı. Antlaşma ile Derbend, Bakü ve Hazar kıyısındaki diğer bölgeler yeniden İran’a verildi. İran’da Afşar hânedanının kurucusu Nâdir Şah 1147 (1734-35) ve 1154-1155’te (1741-1742) Kafkasya’da hâkimiyet kurabilmek için Derbend ve Dağıstan’ın diğer bölgelerine seferler yaptı. Nâdir Şah Derbend’i ele geçirdikten sonra burayı eskisi gibi önemli bir liman haline getirmek için sahildeki boş mahallelerin iskânına çalıştıysa da başarılı olamadı. Onun 1747’de öldürülmesinden sonra Derbend’de müstakil bir hanlık kuruldu. Şehir 1759 sonbaharında Kuba Hanı Feth Ali Han’ın idaresi altına girdi. 1796’ya kadar Kuba hanlarının hâkimiyetinde kaldıktan sonra Gürcistan hâkimlerinden II. Irakli’nin Kaçarlı Ağa Muhammed Şah’ın saldırısına karşı Rusya’dan yardım istemesi üzerine, 1796 yılı baharında General V. Zubov’un idaresindeki Rus kuvvetleri tarafından kuşatıldı. Denizden ve karadan yapılan bir haftalık kuşatma sonunda 10 Mayıs’ta ele geçirildi. II. Katerina’nın ölümü üzerine burayı boşaltan Ruslar 1806’da yeniden şehri işgal ettiler. Kuba Hanı Şeyh Ali Han’ın ve diğer hanlıkların mühimmat ve sayı bakımından üstün Ruslar karşısında, Osmanlılar’ın ve İran’ın yardım ve teşviklerine rağmen burayı alma çabaları bir sonuç vermedi. 1813’te imzalanan Gülistan ve 1828’deki Türkmençay antlaşmaları Derbend ve çevresindeki Rus idaresini onayladı.
Rus idaresi altında Derbend’de XIX. yüzyılın ortalarına doğru kök boyası ve ticaretinde önemli bir gelişme sağlandıysa da asrın sonlarında sosyal ve iktisadî hayatta gerileme devri başladı. Ancak 1900 yılı başlarında demiryolu inşası ile Güney Rusya ve Mâverâ-yi Kafkas’la birleştirilmesi, şehir ve bölge iktisadiyatında yeni bir canlanmaya yol açtı. Rusya’da 1917 Bolşevik İhtilâli’nden sonra Derbend ve Dağıstan’da kurulan millî ve İslâmî teşkilâtlar (Câmiatü’l-İslâmiyye ve diğerleri) bağımsız bir devlet kurma çabası gösterdiler. Fakat 1918 ve 1920’de iç çatışmalar bolşeviklerin zaferiyle sonuçlandı ve 1920 baharında şehir bolşevikler tarafından işgal edildi. 1921’de Rusya Federatif Sosyalist Cumhuriyeti’ne dahil Dağıstan Muhtar Cumhuriyeti içinde aynı adlı ilçenin (rayon) merkezi haline geldi.
Ortaçağ’larda oldukça gelişmiş ve kalabalık bir nüfusa sahip olan ve giderek önemini kaybeden Derbend, XVIII. yüzyılın sonlarından itibaren yeniden artan bir yerleşmeye sahne oldu. 1796’da 10.000 dolayındaki nüfusu 1897’de 14.600, 1914’te 20.000, 1926’da 23.000, 1959’da 47.300, 1971’de 59.000 oldu. 1982’de 75.000’e yükselen nüfus 1992’de 84.000 dolayına ulaştı.
Birçok defa el değiştiren Derbend’de halkın daha Ortaçağ’larda Arap hâkimiyeti sırasında Türkçe konuştuğu bilinmektedir. İstahrî’ye göre IX ve X. yüzyıllarda şehir halkı Hazar Türkçesi ve diğer bazı lehçeleri konuşuyordu. XIX. yüzyılın ortalarında Derbend’e gelen I. N. Berezin, Türk lehçelerinden birinin (Âzerî Türkçesi) şehirde hâkim olduğunu yazar. Burada daha eski asırlarda özel bir Fars lehçesini konuşan yahudilerin de bulunduğu bilinmektedir. Bugün şehir halkının çoğunluğu Lezgice ve ona yakın dilleri konuşmaktadır. 1920’den sonra Rusça da oldukça yayılmıştır.
Günümüzde Dağıstan’ın gelişmiş şehirlerinden biri olan Derbend, önemli bir demiryolu istasyonu ve limandır. Şehirde teknik ve tıp okulları, iplik, mensucat, konserve ve şarap fabrikaları bulunmaktadır. Güney bölgesi ise gelişmiş bir bağcılık ve bahçecilik alanıdır.
Derbend, Kafkasya’da İslâm öncesi ve sonrası döneme ait birçok tarihî eserin bulunduğu nâdir şehirlerden biridir. Özellikle Calgan dağının yamaçlarında bulunan kale (iç hisar) ve onun kuzey ve güney yanlarından Hazar’a kadar uzanan birbirine paralel iki sur en eski tarihî kalıntılardır. Kale surlarının eni 2-4, yüksekliği 13-20 metredir. Kuzey surları, güney surunun biri 800 m., diğeri 400 m. uzunluğundaki iki kısmı, sekiz kapısı, otuz kule (burç), mazgallar bugün hâlâ ayaktadır. 115’te (733) yapılmış Derbend Cuma Camii de bugüne kadar ulaşmıştır; medrese ise 879’da (1474-75) yapılmıştır. Ortaçağ’larda inşa edilen han, hamam, su kemeri ve kilise kalıntıları da dikkat çeken diğer tarihî eserlerdir.
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Bu madde TDV İslâm Ansiklopedisi’nin 1994 yılında İstanbul’da basılan 9. cildinde, 164-166 numaralı sayfalarda yer almıştır.