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FİLİBE Skip to content Bulgaristan’ın güney kesiminde bugünkü adı Plovdiv olan eski bir Osmanlı şehri.
Eski adı Philippopolis olup bugün Bulgaristan’ın Sofya’dan sonraki ikinci büyük merkezidir. Osmanlı hâkimiyeti döneminde Balkanlar’daki önemli şehirler arasında yer alan, aynı zamanda cami, medrese gibi yapılarıyla ve burada yetişen ilim adamlarıyla önde gelen İslâm merkezlerinden biri olan Filibe, Yukarı Trakya ovasında Meriç nehrinin iki yakasında kurulmuştur. Şehrin eski merkezi, geniş bir alanın ortasında kayalıklardan oluşan beş tepenin üzerinde yer almaktadır. XX. yüzyılın ilk yarısına kadar camileri, kiliseleri ve sinagogları, farklı dinî ve etnik grupları içine alan nüfus yapısıyla kozmopolit bir görünüş arzetmekte olup Bulgaristan’da bir çeşit Akdeniz-Levanten üslûbu yansıtan özelliğe sahip bulunmaktaydı.
Filibe milâttan önce 342’de Makedon Kralı II. Filip tarafından, Kalkolitik dönemden beri iskâna açık olan ve Traklar zamanında meskûn durumda bulunan bir tepede kurulmuştur. Burası Traklar tarafından Pulpudeva adıyla anılmıştı. Kral Filip şehri üç dağ etrafında kurduğu için sonradan bu iskân yerine Trimontium (üç dağ şehri) adı da verilmiştir. Romalılar ise şehri dağların güney kısmında olan ovaya doğru genişletmişlerdir. II. Dünya Savaşı’ndan sonra şehir ve civarında yapılan kazılarda su kanalı, evler, kaleler ve bir tiyatro binası kalıntıları ortaya çıkarılmıştır.
Romalılar’ın son ve Bizanslılar’ın ilk dönemlerinde barbar kavimlerin saldırılarına uğrayan şehir özellikle 444-447 yıllarında Hunlar tarafından tahrip edildi. İmparator I. Iustinianos (527-565) burayı daha dar sınırlar içinde yeniden inşa etmek zorunda kaldı. VII. yüzyılda şehrin etrafına Slavlar yerleştiler. Ardından Bulgar Hanı Malamir (831-836) Filibe’yi kendi toprakları içine kattı. X. yüzyıl sonundan XII. yüzyıl sonuna kadar tekrar Bizans İmparatorluğu’na bağlanan Filibe III. Haçlı Seferi sırasında (1189-1192) yağmalandı ve kısmen tahrip edildi. Yeniden onarılan şehir 1204’te tekrar Haçlı saldırılarına uğradı. Dönemin Haçlı kaynaklarından Villehardouinli Geoffrey’in kroniğinde burası Doğu Avrupa’nın en güzel şehirlerinden biri olarak tanıtılır. Filibe 1203 dolaylarında Bulgarlar’ın eline geçti. Şehir halkının isyanı üzerine Çar Kaloyan surlarının ve saraylarının yıkılmasını, âsilerin önde gelenlerinin öldürülmesini emretti. Bu son tarihten Osmanlı fethine kadar şehir Bizanslılar, Bulgarlar ve Haçlılar arasında on bir defa el değiştirdi ve küçük bir sınır kalesi haline geldi. Âşıkpaşazâde, Neşrî, Oruç Bey ve Hoca Sâdeddin Efendi gibi bazı Osmanlı tarihçilerine göre, Lala Şâhin kumandasındaki Osmanlı kuvvetleri Edirne’nin fethinden hemen sonra 1361’de Filibe’yi ele geçirdiler. Ancak bu tarih kesin olmayıp tartışmalıdır. Fetih tarihinin 1360’ların sonuna rastladığı tahmin edilmektedir. Halkın Osmanlılar’a güçlük çıkartmadan teslim olması üzerine herkesin bulunduğu yerde kalmasına izin verilmişti. Filibe’yi fetheden ilk Rumeli Beylerbeyi Lala Şâhin Meriç üzerine bir köprü yaptırmış ve çeltik yetiştirmeye oldukça elverişli olan şehrin hemen kuzeyindeki araziye pirinç ektirerek bölgeye bu ziraatı tanıtmıştır. Yıldırım Bayezid’in oğulları arasında meydana gelen savaşlar sırasında Şehzade Mûsâ Çelebi Filibe’yi ele geçirmiş ve şehir surlarını yıktırmıştır (1412).
XV. yüzyılın ilk yarısında yeniden imar edilen Filibe’ye Anadolu’dan getirilen Türk aileleri yerleştirildi ve burası Rumeli beylerbeyinin merkezi haline geldi. Osmanlı öncesine ait birkaç eser hariç Filibe’nin en önemli mimari eserleri bu dönemde şehrin yeniden imarı sırasında yapılmıştır. En başta geleni Ulucami veya Cumaya (Cuma) Camii denilen eser olup 1425 civarında II. Murad tarafından inşa edilmiştir. Bu cami, günümüze kadar gelen iki ulucami tipi örneğinden birini temsil eder. Caminin orta kısmı dört sütun üzerine oturtulmuş üç kubbe ile kaplı olup yanlarda altı beşik kemeri mevcuttur. Caminin ilk halinde bulunan beş kubbeli revakla birlikte bazı önemli kısımlar bir zelzele esnasında yıkılmıştır. Cami 1199’da (1785) I. Abdülhamid tarafından yeniden yaptırılmış ve bu sırada II. Murad kitâbesi yerine I. Abdülhamid kitâbesi yerleştirilmiştir. I. Abdülhamid’in kitâbesi şair, yazar ve daha sonra reîsülküttâb olan Ulu Ârif Mehmed Efendi tarafından yazılmıştır. Caminin orijinal minaresi, ilk dönem Osmanlı mimarisinin özelliğini yansıtan eşkenar dörtgen iki renkli tuğlalardan yapılmıştır. Zelzele sırasında tahrip olan iç nakışlar, Edirneli Seyyid Nakşibendî Mustafa Çelebi tarafından 1234’te (1818-19) Osmanlı barok stilinde yeniden boyanmış olup halen bu haliyle korunmaktadır. Cuma Camii’nin kendine ait vakfı yoktu. Bu caminin masrafları, II. Murad’ın yapılarına ayrılmış Edirne’deki büyük vakıftan karşılanmaktaydı. Osmanlı dönemi Filibe’sinin ilk nüvesi Cuma Camii etrafında oluşmuştur. Ayrıca XV. yüzyıl boyunca burada altı kubbeli bir bedesten, bir hamam ve diğer kubbeli camiler inşa edilerek fizikî bakımdan şehir büyümeye başlamıştır. Nitekim yerleşimin ikinci nüvesi, kitâbesine göre 848’de (1444-45) bitirilen Rumeli Beylerbeyi Gazi Şehâbeddin Paşa’nın büyük külliyesi etrafında teşekkül etmiştir. Bu külliye Balkanlar’ın en büyük zâviyeli-cami tipini teşkil eder. Burası on iki öğrenci odası bulunan büyük bir medrese, bir hamam, büyük bir han ve bir mutfak binasından meydana gelmektedir. Bunların hepsi Meriç nehri yakınlarına, Cuma Camii’nin yarım mil aşağısına yapılmıştır. Şehâbeddin Paşa, aralarında Kuklen köyünün de bulunduğu Filibe’ye bağlı on sekiz köyü ve iki büyük pirinç (çeltik) tarlasını bu yapıların ihtiyaçları için vakfetmiştir. Bunların geliri 1529-1530’da 179.987 akçe idi (BA, TD , nr. 370, s. 102). Şehâbeddin Paşa’nın Filibe’deki mimari eserlerinden sadece İmaret Camii ayakta kalabilmiştir. Bu cami 1970’lerde restore edilmiş ve komünist rejimin yıkılmasından sonra ibadete açılmıştır. 848 (1444-45) tarihli asıl kitâbe ile II. Mahmud’un iradesiyle gerçekleştirilen tamirat sonrasında şair Sîret tarafından yazılan 1250 (1834-35) tarihli kitâbe Filibe Arkeoloji Müzesi’nde bulunmaktadır. Filibe’deki diğer önemli bir vakıf, İsfendiyaroğulları’ndan olan ve 1461-1479 yılları arasında Filibe’de ve Filibe yakınındaki kendi mülk köyü Markova’da oturan İsmâil Bey’e aitti. İsmail Bey Filibe’de daha sonra Bey Camii adını alan kubbeli bir cami, iki mescid, bir türbe ve oldukça zarif nakışlı tonozları ve kubbeleri olan bir büyük çifte hamam yaptırmıştır. Markova köyü yakınlarındaki Rodop dağlarından Filibe’ye getirilen su kanalının da İsmâil Bey tarafından yaptırıldığı belirtilmektedir. İsmâil Bey’in camii ve türbesi 1914’te tahrip edildi. Büyük çifte hamamı ise yakın zamana kadar açık bulunuyordu.
XV. yüzyılda fizikî açıdan gelişme gösteren Filibe, nüfus yönünden de giderek kalabalık bir merkez haline geldi. XV. yüzyılın son çeyreğinde burada % 2,5’i mühtedi yerli halktan oluşan 796 müslüman, yetmiş sekiz hıristiyan (Rum) ve otuz üç Çingene hânesi mevcuttu (BA, TD , nr. 26). Bu rakamlara göre toplam 4000-5000 civarında nüfusuyla Filibe Niğbolu’dan sonra Bulgaristan’ın ikinci büyük şehri durumundaydı. XV. yüzyılın ikinci yarısında Sofya’nın önem kazanıp Rumeli beylerbeyinin merkezi oluşu bir süre sonra Filibe’yi olumsuz yönde etkiledi. Nitekim XVI. yüzyıl boyunca buranın nüfusu 1000 hâne (yaklaşık 5000 kişi) civarında kaldı; kadılar, şeyhler ve esnaf ileri gelenlerince yeni binalar yaptırıldı. XVI. yüzyıl süresince hıristiyan nüfusu da gittikçe artmaya başladı. 1489’daki toplam 111 hâne 1568’de 153 hâneye, 1610’da 231 hâneye (yaklaşık 1200 kişi) yükseldi. Müslümanlar ise 800 hâne (yaklaşık 4000 kişi) civarında kaldı. 1568’de burada İspanya’dan geldikleri belirtilen elli dört yahudi ailesi bulunuyordu. 1043 (1633-34) tarihli cizye defterinde 213 hıristiyan hânenin yanı sıra altmış sekiz hâne Ermeni tüccar ve tekstil üreticisinden söz edilmektedir. Bu sonuncu grup, 1610’dan hemen sonra İran’dan Osmanlı ülkesine kaçan Ermeni tâcirlerin Balkanlar’a kadar uzananlarına mensuptu. Filibe’nin artan hıristiyan nüfusu XVII. yüzyılın ikinci yarısına ait iki cizye defterinden takip edilebilmektedir. 1652 tarihli olup bugün Sofya’da bulunan deftere göre burada 310 Ortodoks hıristiyan, yetmiş beş Ermeni ve on altı yahudi hânesi vardı. Başbakanlık Osmanlı Arşivi’ndeki ikinci cizye defterinde ise hâne sayısı verilmemiş, yetişkin erkek nüfusu “neferen” gösterilmiştir. Buna göre 2290 nefer (yaklaşık 1700 hâne) hıristiyan, bunun yanı sıra birçok ırgat ve 1340’tan aşağı olmamak üzere de geçici nüfus mevcuttu. 1696-1697 tarihli defterde hıristiyanlar arasında 210 dokumacı, 182 terzi, 141 ayakkabıcı, 124 kuyumcu ve doksan iki meyhânecinin bulunduğu belirtilmektedir. Müslümanların sanatlarıyla ilgili bilgi 1568 tarihli defterde de yer almaktadır. Buna göre yetmiş yedi halıcı, on dokuz terzi, on dokuz debbâğ, on altı duvarcı yanında merdivenciler, berberler, ayakkabıcılar ve dokumacılar vardı. Sofya’da bulunan 1576 tarihli Celepkeşan Defteri ’nde 1568 tarihli Tahrir Defteri ’nde zikredilmeyen beş tüccarla dört ipek tüccarı, bazı kuyumcular ve kürkçülerin varlığına rastlanmaktadır. Bu son tarihte Filibe’nin otuz üç müslüman, beş hıristiyan, bir yahudi ve bir de Çingene mahallesi olduğu görülmektedir. Şehirdeki müslüman nüfusunun sadece % 4,6’sı yerli halktandı (TK, TD , nr. 65; BA, TD , nr. 648). XVII. yüzyılın ilk yıllarından itibaren Filibe’de kendilerine ait kiliseleri olan Roma Katolik Kilisesi’ne bağlı bir Bulgar cemaati mevcuttur.
Batılı seyyahlar Filibe’yi güzel bir şehir olarak tavsif ederler. Fakat bunlarda Şehâbeddin Paşa Hanı dışındaki İslâmî yapılarla ilgili bilgi bulunmaz. Filibe hakkında en ayrıntılı bilgi Evliya Çelebi tarafından verilmiştir (Seyahatnâme , III, 381-386). Evliya Çelebi Filibe’yi ilk olarak 1652’de ziyaret etmiş ve ardından buraya birkaç defa daha uğramıştır. Ancak onun şehirdeki hâne sayısına dair verdiği 8060 rakamı şüphe ile karşılanmalıdır. Diğer rakamlar ise daha güvenilir görünmektedir. Ona göre burada elli üç cami, birkaç medrese, yetmiş mektep, sekiz hamam, on bir tekke, yedi dârülkurrâ ve 880 dükkân vardı. Bu binalardan bazıları hakkında ayrıntılı bilgi veren Evliya Çelebi Filibe nüfusu arasında temayüz etmiş birçok âlim, şeyh, imam, fakih ve şair olduğunu, tarikatlardan Halvetiyye, Celvetiyye, Kādiriyye ve Gülşeniyye mensuplarının bulunduğunu yazar.
40-50.000 nüfuslu XVIII. yüzyıl Filibesi canlı bir ticaret merkeziydi. Bu dönemde Türk nüfusu gerilerken hıristiyan nüfusu artış göstermiştir. Sredna Gora dağları ve Rodop’tan gelen Bulgarlar zanaatların büyük bir bölümünü ele geçirdiler. Sonradan gelen Rumlar ve diğer bazı hıristiyan gruplar Filibe’de yerleştiler ve ticarî hayata katıldılar. Yeni gelen hıristiyanlar şehrin ilk kurulduğu dağlık kesime yerleştiler ve oraya canlılık kazandırdılar. 1846’da çıkan bir yangın şehre çok büyük zarar vermesine rağmen gelişmeyi durduramadı. Balkanlar’ın ilk modern tekstil fabrikası 1847’de Filibe’de kuruldu. Sonraki dönem Osmanlı Filibesi’nin zenginliği evlerin ve konakların inşa tarzlarından da anlaşılmaktadır. 1830-1870 arasında, eskiden beri var olan şehrin on üç kilisesi yıkılarak yerlerine daha büyük ve daha gösterişlileri yapılmıştır. XIX. yüzyıl Filibesi’nde birçok kitâbevi, beş dilde yayın yapabilen matbaalar ve edebiyat cemiyetleri vardı. Papa Konstantin 1819’da yazdığı Description of the Eparchi of Philippopolis adlı eserinde şehrin nüfusunu Türkler, Ortodoks hıristiyanlar, Ermeniler, Pavlikenler (Katolik) ve yahudiler olmak üzere beş gruba ayırır. Filibe’nin on beş mahallesinden on birinde Türkler, üçünde Ortodoks hıristiyanlar ve ikisinde diğer gruplar yaşamaktaydı. Türkler’in birçok okulu vardı ve dolayısıyla çoğunluğu okur yazardı. Ermeniler genellikle Türkçe, Pavlikenler Bulgarca ve İtalyanca, yahudiler eski İspanyolca konuşurlardı. Fakat Filibe’nin içinde ve civarında hemen herkes Türkçe’yi anlardı.
Hochstätter 1859’da Filibe’nin nüfusunu 50.000 olarak verir. Bunun yaklaşık 10.000’i Türk’tü ve otuz cami bulunuyordu. Bulgarlar’ın sayısı da Türkler kadardı. Geri kalan nüfus Rumlaşmış Bulgarlar, Rumlar, Ermeniler, Katolikler ve yahudilerden oluşmaktaydı. Viquesnel 1868’de Filibe’de 8000 hânenin bulunduğunu, bunun 3000’inin Türk, 2000’inin Yunan, 1400’ünün Bulgar, 700-800’ünün Ermeni, 200-300’ünün Katolik ve 500’ünün yahudilere ait olduğunu belirtir.
1291 (1874) tarihli Edirne Vilâyeti Salnâmesi ’nde Filibe’de yirmi dört cuma camiinin yanı sıra dokuz mescidin, on üç kilisenin, bir sinagogun, on iki hamamın, 1770 dükkânın ve 161 ambarın bulunduğu kayıtlıdır. Hâne ve nüfus sayısı gerçeği yansıtıyor görünmektedir. 1876 Osmanlı nüfus sayımına göre Filibe kazasının müslüman nüfusu 40.874 (sadece erkekler) ve hıristiyan nüfusu 85.373 idi. Yani müslümanlar genel nüfusun % 32’sini oluşturmaktaydı. Halbuki XVI. yüzyılın ilk çeyreğinde 1529 tarihli Tahrir Defteri ’ne göre nüfusun dinî kompozisyonu yarı yarıya bir yapıya sahipti (BA, TD , nr. 370).
1877-78 Osmanlı-Rus Savaşı sonrasında Filibe önce yeni oluşturulan Şarkî Rumeli vilâyetine katıldı, ardından da 1885’te yeni kurulan Bulgar Prensliği’nce ele geçirildi. Bu olaylar Filibe’nin Türk nüfusunun büyük çoğunluğunun göçüne yol açtı ve şehirde büyük bir çöküş yaşandı. 1887 Bulgar sayımına göre Filibe’nin nüfusu 33.000 dolayına düşmüştü. Nüfusun 19.542’si Bulgar, 5615’i Türk, 3930’u Yunan, 2202’si yahudi ve 1395’i de diğer gruplardan oluşmaktaydı. Pavlikenler Bulgar nüfusuna dahil edilmişti. Bulgar yönetiminde Filibe kısa süreli bir gerilemeden sonra tekrar gelişmeye başladı. 1934’te Filibe’nin nüfusu 99.000’i geçmişti. Bu nüfusun 80.035’ini Bulgarlar, 8826’sını müslümanlar, 4030’unu yahudiler ve 6738’ini diğerleri teşkil etmekteydi. Zamanla Osmanlılar’ın son dönemindeki şehrin kozmopolitan görünüşü kaybolmaya başladı. Rumlar, XX. yüzyılın ilk yıllarında gerçekleştirilen kıyım sonrasında dışarı atıldılar. Müslüman nüfus ise % 9’a kadar düşürüldüğü gibi gittikçe daha da geriledi. Müslümanların sayılarının azalmasıyla binalarının, kıymetli mimari eserlerinin yıkımı da başladı. Muhammed Dzinguiz’in hazırladığı bir listeye göre 1908’de Filibe’de şu cami ve mescidler bulunuyordu: Muradiye veya Câmi-i Kebîr (Cuma Camii), Seyyid Mahmud Camii, Musalla Camii, Taşköprü Camii, Ambar Gazi Camii, Tepe Camii, İne Hoca Camii, Saraçhane Camii, Çelebi Cadı Camii, Yeşiloğlu Camii, Çukur Cami, Buruc Baba Camii, Süpürge Baba Camii, İmaret Camii, Hacı Ömer Camii, Hacı Hasan Camii, Zincirli Cami, Bey Camii, Moluphâne Camii, Alaca Cami, Kirpici Mahalle Camii, Gül Mahalle Mescidi, Hoşkadem Mescidi, Kumrulu Mescid.
1970’e kadar Cuma ve İmaret camileri hariç diğerleri tahrip edilmiştir. Cuma Camii yakınlarındaki oldukça büyük olan Kurşunlu Han’ın ve bedestenin tahrip edilmesi Filibe için çok büyük kayıptır. 1970’lerde, II. Bayezid’in kazaskerlerinden meşhur âlim Hacı Hasanzâde tarafından XV. yüzyıl sonlarında yaptırılan hamam ve cami ile Karşıyaka Hamamı tahrip edilmiştir. Komünist rejim döneminde tepeler etrafında kurulu şehrin hıristiyanlara ait bölgesine tarihî bölge statüsü verilmiş ve geniş çaplı restorasyon çalışmaları yapılmıştır. Roma ve Bizans kalıntılarının yanı sıra mevlevîhâne de restore edilerek Bulgaristan’ın en güzel lokantalarından biri burada faaliyete geçirilmiştir.
Osmanlı Filibesi’nde yetişen meşhur kişiler arasında, kendisi de bir fakih, müellif ve şair olan ve Filibe’de bir cami yaptıran Yeşilzâde Riyâzî’nin oğlu Kadı Abdüllatif Efendi, meşhur Hümâyunnâme ’nin Türkçe versiyonunun yazarı Alâeddin Ali Çelebi, şair ve kadı Çelebi Kadı ile oğlu Mehmed İzzetî (Çelebi Kadı da Filibe’de bir cami ve bir hamam yaptırmıştır) ve Nûreddinzâde Mustafa Efendi sayılabilir. İkinci derecede önemli olan simalardan Şehâbeddin Paşa Camii imamı Bezmî’nin oğlu şair Revnak, diğer şairlerden Cefâyî, Nâlişî ve tezkire sahibi Latîfî’nin hocası Sâkî (Îsâ Hoca Fânî) zikredilebilir. Filibe’de görev yapan şahsiyetlerden en önemlileri, her ikisi de XV. yüzyılın ikinci yarısında orada bulunan Tokatlı âlim Molla Lutfî ve meşhur şair-fakih Molla Hayâlî’dir. Bu kadar temayüz etmiş kişilerden dolayı Filibe Osmanlı Devleti’nin önemli dinî ve edebî merkezlerinden biri olmuştur. Bu hususta diğer önemli bir işaret de Macaristan’ın Peç bölgesinin Avusturyalılar’ın eline geçmesiyle Filibe’ye gelen müslüman göçmenlerin XVII. yüzyılın sonunda burada bir mevlevîhâne kurmalarıdır.
1878’den bu yana Plovdiv olarak anılan Filibe, günümüzde yaklaşık yarım milyon insanın yaşadığı bir sanayi ve ticaret şehri haline gelmiştir. Yahudiler 1948’de İsrail’e göç ettiyse de 6000 Ermeni ve 4000 Roma Katolik Kilisesi’ne bağlı cemaat hâlâ burada yaşamaktadır. Bunların dışında yaklaşık 20.000 müslüman vardır ki bunların çoğunluğu Türkçe konuşan Çingeneler’den oluşmaktadır. Müslümanlar toplam şehir nüfusunun yaklaşık % 6-7’sini teşkil ederler. Filibe bir Bulgar şehri haline gelmiş ve Osmanlı zamanındaki çok kültürlü, çok cemaatli yapısını kaybetmiştir. XIX. yüzyıl Osmanlı Filibesi’nin canlı bir tasviri Bulgar ressamı Tsanko Lavrenov’un çalışmalarında görülmektedir.
BİBLİYOGRAFYA
BA, TD , nr. 26, 370, 648.
BA, MAD , nr. 1273.
TK, TD , nr. 65.
Cizye Defteri , Sofya Millî Ktp., nr. F88 a.e 50; nr. PG 17/28.
Evliya Çelebi, Seyahatnâme , III, 381-386.
P. Konstantin, Evcheiridon peri tis eparchias Filippopoleos , Vienna 1819.
G. Tsoukalas, Istoriografiki pedigrafiki tis eperchias Philippopoleos , Vienna 1851.
A. Viquesnel, Voyage dans la Turquie d’Europe , Paris 1868, II, 173.
St. Šiškov, Plovdiv v svoeto minalo i nastojašte , Plovdiv 1927.
Ž. Čankov, Geografski Rečnik na Bǎlgarija , Sofia 1939, s. 338-339.
V. Peev, Grad Plovdiv, minalo i nastojašte , Plovdiv 1941.
Ch. Peev, Alte Häuser in Plovdiv , Berlin 1943.
a.mlf., “Golemijat Bezisten v Plovdiv”, Godišnik Naroden Muzej , I, Plovdiv 1948.
M. Bičev, Bǎlgarskiyat Barok , Sofia 1954.
Th. Zlatev, Bılgarskijat grad prez epokhata na viznajdaneto , Sofia 1955.
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Bu madde TDV İslâm Ansiklopedisi’nin 1996 yılında İstanbul’da basılan 13. cildinde, 79-82 numaralı sayfalarda yer almıştır.