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HARÂBÂTÎ BABA TEKKESİ Skip to content Rumeli’de Bektaşîliğin en önemli merkezlerinden biri olan tekke.
Günümüzde Makedonya sınırları içinde kalan tekke, Kalkandelen’in (Tetovo) güneybatısındaki Tekke mahallesinde bulunmaktadır. Kaynakların büyük bir kısmında Harâbâtî Baba Tekkesi (Slav dillerindeki kaynaklarda Arabati Baba Tekija), bazılarında ise Sersem Ali Baba Tekkesi adlarıyla zikredilen tekkenin ilk bânisi kabul edilen Sersem Ali Baba ile ikinci bânisi Harâbâtî Baba hakkında yeterli bilgi yoktur.
Tekke, muhtemelen Dimetoka Bektaşî Âsitânesi’nde yetişip 958’de (1551) Kalkandelen’e gelen Sersem Ali Baba tarafından kurulmuştur. Sersem Ali Baba’nın Kanûnî Sultan Süleyman’ın veziri veya hanımı Mâh-ı Devrân Sultan’ın kardeşi olduğu, sultanın ısrarına rağmen görevinden ayrıldığı, çeşitli tekkeleri dolaştığı, en sonunda Kalkandelen’den Necef’e gidip orada vefat ettiği rivayet edilmektedir. Sadettin Nüzhet Ergun’un, 958’de (1551) Hacı Bektaş Tekkesi babası olup 977’de (1569) muhtemelen Kalkandelen’de vefat ettiğini söylediği Sersem Ali Baba bu zat olmalıdır.
Kaynaklarda tekkenin ikinci bânisi olarak gösterilen Harâbâtî Baba (ö. 1194/1780), rivayete göre dört arkadaşı ile birlikte Bektaşîliği yaymak için Rumeli’ye gitmiş, Kalkandelen’de iken yanan bir kandil görmüş, bunun Sersem Ali Baba’nın ruhu olduğunu söyleyerek buraya onun için bir türbe yaptırmıştır.
Tekkenin kuruluşu hakkında başka görüşler de bulunmaktadır. Hasluck, Sersem Ali Baba’nın kabrinin Muharrib (Muharrem) Baba tarafından keşfedildiğini ve onun tavsiyesiyle 1248’de (1832) Rızâ Paşa tarafından yaptırıldığını söyler. Krum Tomovski ve Galaba Palikruševa gibi araştırmacılar tekkenin 1799’da yaptırıldığı görüşündedir. Ekrem Hakkı Ayverdi ise, XVI. yüzyılın sonlarına doğru yaptırılmış olan tekkenin Harâbâtî Baba döneminde Receb Paşa tarafından genişletildiğini söyler. Nitekim Bektaşî şairlerinden Türâbî’nin (ö. 1285/1868-69), “Receb Paşa ister gönülden yardım / Dergâhında Sersem Ali Baba’ya” mısralarından tekkeyi ziyaret ederek yardımda bulunduğu anlaşılmaktadır. Halk arasında Recep Paşa’nın bu yardımıyla ilgili çeşitli menkıbeler anlatılır. Harâbâtî Baba’dan sonra on bir şeyhin görev yaptığı tekkenin 1230 (1815) tarihli vakfiyesi Kalkandelen Arşivi’ndedir (Arhiv na Gradot Tetovo).
Harâbâtî Baba Tekkesi çeşitli yapılardan oluşan bir tarikat külliyesidir. 26.700 m2 ’lik bir alana kurulan külliye, 3 m. yüksekliğinde mazgallı duvarlarla çevrilidir. Moloz taş duvarların kuşattığı avlunun dört tarafına birer kapı yerleştirilmiştir. Diğer Bektaşî tekkelerinin birçoğu gibi şehir merkezine uzak bir yerde kurulmuş olan Harâbâtî Baba Tekkesi’nin aynı tarikata ait yapılardaki mimari geleneği sürdürdüğü görülmektedir. Avlunun kuzeybatı tarafında mescid, semâhâne ve iki türbe yer alır. Türbelerden, on iki köşeli gövde üzerine on iki dilimli kubbe ile örtülü olanı Sersem Ali Baba’ya aittir. Ancak Sersem Ali Baba’nın Necef’te vefat etmiş olduğu doğru ise bu yapı bir makam-türbe olmalıdır. Türbenin önündeki hazîrede Receb Paşa ile tekkenin şeyh ve dervişlerine ait on bir mezar bulunmaktadır. Hazîrenin doğusundaki ahşap direklere oturan sofa içinde mevcut açık türbe Harâbâtî Baba’ya aittir. Dikdörtgen planlı mescidle ahşap direklere oturan son cemaat yeri arasındaki irtibat, ana eksen üzerinde açılan bir kapı ile sağlanmıştır. Son restorasyonlarda mescidin duvar köşeleri kesme taş, diğer bölümleri ise moloz taştan yapılmıştır. Ahşap ve profilli kemerlere sahip olan mescidin örtü sistemi kirpi saçaklı, kırma çatıdan meydana gelmektedir. Duvar, kubbe ve mihrap bölümlerinde alçı, tavan silmesinde kalem işi süslemeler vardır. Ahşap minber kaba bir işçilik arzetmektedir. Harim gün ışığını güneyde iki, batıda üç ve son cemaat yerinde iki olmak üzere yedi pencereden sağlar. Mescidle bağlantısı olan semâhânenin sadece doğu duvarı ayakta kalabilmiş olduğundan diğer kalıntılar semâhânenin planı hakkında bir fikir vermemektedir.
Tekkenin diğer birimleri mihman evi, şadırvan-çardak, dervişhâne, aşevi, harem, çeşme, samanlık ve ahırdan oluşmaktadır. Kiremitli kırma bir çatının örttüğü geniş saçakların altında yer alan iki katlı mihman evinin alt katında iki oda, kiler ve mutfak birimleri, üst katında üç oda bulunmaktadır. Şadırvan, geniş ahşap saçakların teşkil ettiği gölgelik altında ahşap direkler üzerine açık bir sofa biçiminde düzenlenmiştir. Şadırvanın batı tarafında fıskıyeli sekizgen bir havuz mevcuttur. Havuzun çevresinde dolanan sedirin arka kısımları tamamen açık olup buraya bir şadırvan mahiyeti kazandırmaktadır. Şadırvana bitişik sedir ağacından yapılmış ahşap oyma kafesli bir kapı vasıtasıyla çardak bölümüne geçilmektedir. Kapının üzerinde ahşap oymalı altın yaldız kaplama bir âyet (el-Hicr 15/46), şadırvan kapısında da, “Yâ müfettiha’l-ebvâb, iftah lenâ hayre’l-bâb” ibaresi yer almaktadır. Her iki kısmın tavan bölümleri ahşap oyma göbek süslemelidir. Tekke kapısının kuzey kısmında bulunan dervişhânenin zemin katı moloz taş, üst katı ise kerpiçtendir. Dervişhâneye paralel olarak dikdörtgen planlı aşevi, külliye içinde fonksiyonunu günümüzde de sürdürmeyi başaran yegâne yapıdır. Mescidle türbeler arasında küçük bir kapı ile geçilen iki katlı harem dairesi, tekkenin tahribe uğramamış yapılarından biridir. Zemin katı moloz taş, üst katı kerpiçten olup mor boya ile boyanmış, duvar köşelikleri ise ahşapla kaplıdır. Zemin katta bir, üst katta ise iki oda vardır. Çatı altındaki silmede bordür içinde kalem işi duvar süslemeleri ve Bektaşî sembolü olan bir aslan figürü yer almaktadır. Yapının üstü oluklu kiremitlerle örtülüdür. Mescidle şadırvanın arasında ve bahçenin tam ortasında iki çeşme bulunmaktadır. Kitâbelerinden, Büyük Çeşme adı verilen çeşmenin 1205’te (1791), diğerinin 1260’ta (1844) yaptırıldığı anlaşılmaktadır. Tekke avlusunun doğusunda bulunan ve orijinal hali bilinmeyen yapı son yıllarda kat ilâve edilerek motele dönüştürülmüştür. Avlunun güney tarafındaki ahırın restorasyonu son yıllarda tamamlanmış olup günümüzde kışlık restoran olarak kullanılmaktadır. Tekkenin eski fotoğraflarında, avlunun güney tarafındaki duvarın yanında buğday ambarları ve samanlığın yakınında iki katlı bir yapı daha görülür.
1912’de tekkenin kütüphanesinde 216 adet yazma eserin mevcut olduğu kaydedilmektedir. Bu eserler günümüzde muhtemelen Üsküp’teki Narodna i Univerzitetska Biblioteka Kliment Ohridski adlı kütüphanenin Doğu dilleri yazmaları bölümüyle Üsküp Îsâ Bey Kütüphanesi’nde bulunmaktadır.
Tekkenin kalem işi süslemeleri Kalkandelen Alaca Camii’nin (Paşa Camii) duvar süslemeleriyle benzerlik göstermektedir. Her iki külliyede de Mala Reka (Makedonya) köyünden gelen Torbeş (Makedon diliyle konuşan müslüman-Türk) asıllı ustaların çalıştığı bilinmektedir. Mescid ve harem dairesinin iç duvar yüzeyleriyle Harâbâtî Baba Türbesi yanındaki sofa kısmının duvar yüzeyleri manzara resimleri, geometrik şekiller ve bitki motifleriyle süslenmiştir. Harem dairesinin dış duvarında aslan figürü görülür. Mihman evi, harem dairesi ve şadırvanın tavanları ahşap oyma işçiliğinin en güzel örnekleriyle süslenmiştir. Bitki motiflerinin hâkim olduğu alçı süslemeler ise sadece mescidin kubbesiyle tavan silmelerinde ve mihrapta bulunmaktadır.
Kalkandelen ve çevresinde Bektaşîliğin yayılmasında büyük etkisi olan tekke, bölgede önemli bir dinî merkez olarak faaliyet göstermiştir. Hatta gayri müslim Makedon halkının dinî ve millî bayramlarını tekke külliyesi içerisinde kutladıkları bilinmektedir. Kaynaklardan, tekkenin Kalkandelen’den başka İstanbul, Tiran, Elbasan ve Selânik’te zengin vakıfları olduğu anlaşılmaktadır.
Balkan Harbi’ne kadar (1912) faaliyetlerini sürdüren, ancak bu tarihten sonra harabeye dönerek büyük bir kısmı yıkılan Harâbâtî Baba Tekkesi, 1967’de Kalkandelen’deki bir tekstil fabrikası tarafından restore edilip turistik amaçla hizmete açılmıştır.
BİBLİYOGRAFYA
F. W. Hasluck, Bektaşîlik Tedkikleri (trc. Râgıb Hulûsi), İstanbul 1928, s. 28, 73, 81-82.
Sadeddin Nüzhet [Ergun], Bektaşî Şairleri , İstanbul 1930, s. 337-340, 376-386.
Zdravković, Izbor Građeza Proučavanje Spomenika Islamske Arhitekture u Jugoslaviji , Beograd 1964, s. 96-103.
Galaba Palikruševa – Krum Tomovski, “Les tékkés en Macédoine aux XVIII et XIX siècle”, Atti del Secondo Congresso Internazionale di Arte Turca (Venezia 26-29 Settembre 1963) , Napoli 1965, s. 203-211.
Nadi Bilmenoğlu, Kalkandelen: Dün ve Bugün , İstanbul 1975, tür.yer.
“Kako je Nastalo Arabati Baba Teće u Tetovu”, Legenda (ed. Teteks), Tetovo 1981, tür.yer.
Ayverdi, Avrupa’da Osmanlı Mimârî Eserleri III , s. 78-80.
A. Popovic, “Les ordres mystiques musulmans du Sud-Est européen dans la période post-ottomane”, Les ordres mystiques dans l’Islam: Cheminements et situation actuelle (ed. A. Popovic – G. Veinstein), Paris 1986, s. 70, 71.
a.mlf., Les derviches balkaniques hier et aujourd’hui , Istanbul 1994, s. 105, 106.
Džemal Ćehajić, Derviški redovi u jugoslovenskim zemljamař , Sarajevo 1986, s. 156, 158, 166, 167, 169, 171-178, 184.
O. Şiper, “Die Tekke des Harabātī Baba in Tetovo”, Ars Turcica: Akten des VI. Internationalen Kongresses für Türkische Kunst (ed. K. Kreiser v.dğr.), München 1987, s. 308-311.
S. Tomić, “Skoplje, Tetovo, Gostivar, Mavrovo, Galičnik”, Bratstvo , XVII, Novi Sad 1923, s. 220.
D. Gadžanov, “Mohamedani-Pravoslavni i Sektanti v Makedonija”, Makedonski Pregled , I/4, Skoplje 1925, s. 62.
Nimetullâh Hafız, “Yugoslavya’da Bektaşî Tekkeleri”, Çevren , IV/11, Priştine 1976, s. 57-66.
İrfan Morina, “Kosova Salnamesindeki Kalkandelen Kazası-1894”, a.e. , V/16 (1977), s. 73-85.
Aydın Oy, “Kalkandelen’de Harabâtî Baba Tekkesi”, a.e. , VIII/4 (1980), s. 18-29.
Mehmet İbrahimi, “Kalkandelen’deki Harabâtî Baba (Sersem Ali Baba) Bektâşî Tekkesi”, MK , sy. 49 (1985), s. 54-59.
a.mlf., “Arabati Baba Teke (Sersem Ali Baba)”, el-Hilâl , II/6, Skopje 1988, s. 12; II/7 (1988), s. 12.
Jasna Šamić, “Ko su Bektašije”, Kulture Istoka-Časopis za Filožofiju, Književnost i Umetnost Istoka , IV/11, Beograd 1987, s. 56-57.
a.mlf., “Bektašije i Njihova Tradicija”, a.e. , IV/13 (1987), s. 54-57.
Muhammed Aruči, “Bektašiite vo Makedonija-Arabati Baba Tekija”, el-Hilâl , sy. 17, Skopje 1990, s. 11; sy. 18 (1990), s. 12; sy. 19 (1990), s. 12; sy. 20 (1990), s. 12.
a.mlf., “Pokret Bektašija u Makedoniji”, Mart 1989’da Belgrad’daki Sırp İlimler ve Sanatlar Akademisi’nde sunulan tebliğ (İSAM Dokümantasyon Merkezi), s. 14-25.
Murat Küçük, “Makedonya’da Hacı Bektaş Velî Mührü: Harâbâtî Baba Tekkesi”, Cem , sy. 61, İstanbul 1996, s. 28-35.
Bu madde TDV İslâm Ansiklopedisi’nin 1997 yılında İstanbul’da basılan 16. cildinde, 69-71 numaralı sayfalarda yer almıştır.