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İLBASAN Skip to content Arnavutluk’ta tarihî bir şehir.
Bugün Arnavutluk’un orta kesiminde yaklaşık 80.000 nüfuslu bir endüstri şehri olup Antikçağ’dan beri faal durumda bulunan ve Roma’yı Draç üzerinden Balkanlar’ın içine ve İstanbul’a bağlayan tarihî yolun (Via Egnatia) geçtiği Shkumbin nehri vadisinde kurulmuştur. Şehir, Shkumbin ırmağının sağ kıyısında verimli bir ovanın doğu tarafındaki yükseklikte yer almaktadır. Osmanlı hâkimiyeti altında (1466-1912) bir sancak merkezi oluşunun yanı sıra Osmanlılar tarafından Arnavutluk’ta kurulan şehir ve kasabaların en önemlilerinden biri olmuştur.
İlbasan, 1466’da Fâtih Sultan Mehmed tarafından Osmanlılar’a karşı isyan eden İskender Bey’in faaliyetlerini kontrol etmek ve ülkenin kuzeyine giden yolların emniyetini sağlamak amacıyla bir kale olarak kurulmuştur. Burası Arnavutlar’ca İlbasan, Avrupalılar’ca Elbasan şeklinde anılmakta olup bu adın “Arvanid ilini basan (gözetleyen) kale” anlamına geldiği ileri sürülür. Fâtih Sultan Mehmed’in yaptırdığı bu kale, milâdî VI. yüzyıldan beri boş ve harap durumda bulunan antik Scamba şehrinin kalıntıları üzerinde yükselmiştir. Sadece yeni yaptırılan kale değil aynı zamanda bu antik sur kalıntılarının büyük kısmı da bugün ayaktadır.
Kalenin ve etrafında oluşan şehrin kuruluşuyla ilgili bilgiler ilk Osmanlı kroniklerinde, Kritovoulos’un eserinde ve kısa Sırp yıllıklarında yer almaktadır. En geniş bilgi Kritovoulos’un tarihinde bulunur. Ona göre Fâtih Sultan Mehmed, burayı eski şehrin yerinde kurduktan sonra kır kesiminden ve civardaki kasabalarla şehirlerden birçok göçmen getirtip yerleştirmiş, ayrıca güçlü kuvvetli muhafızlarından 400 kadarını kalede bırakmıştır. Tursun Bey de Arnavutluk’un merkezinde ovada bir kale yapıldığını, sarp dağlarda yaşayan halkın böyle bir ovaya ve iskân yerlerine şiddetle ihtiyacı bulunduğunu, ovanın iskânı ve mâmur olması için her yerden “ehl-i İslâm”ın gelip yurt tuttuğunu ve buraya “haline münasip” İlbasan adını verdiklerini, dizdar ve muhafız görevlendirilip Ohri sancağına bağlandığını, daha sonra İlbasan Kalesi etrafındaki sarp dağlarda yaşayan hıristiyan grupların ovaya indiklerini, kalenin civarında mezraalar ve köyler kurduklarını yazar (Târîh-i Ebü’l-Feth , s. 141-145). Sırp kaynaklarında ise 1466 yılı geldiğinde, II. Mehmed’in Ekim ayında, St. Cyprianus ve Justina günü (26 Eylül) Ohri halkının sürgün edilmesi emrini verdiği, aynı yıl Üsküp’ün Ortodoks hıristiyan halkının da sürüldüğü ve Arnavutluk topraklarında yeni inşa edilen Konjuch kasabasına yerleştirildiği belirtilmektedir. Buradaki Konjuch İlbasan’ın Slavca adıdır.
Kuruluştan altmış yıl sonrasına ait bir Osmanlı tahrir kaydından İlbasan’ın durumu hakkında esaslı bilgi edinmek mümkün olmaktadır. 1528 tarihli bu kayıttan şehrin kale surları dışına doğru gelişmeye başladığı anlaşılmaktadır. Bu yıllarda şehirde iki müslüman mahallesinden biri kale içinde, diğeri ise dışında bulunuyordu. Toplam hâne sayısı 108 kadardı. 174 hâne olan hıristiyanlar iki grup halinde kaydedilmişti. Bunlardan “cemâat-i gebrân-ı sürgünân der nefs-i İlbasan” tabiriyle belirtilen yetmiş üç hânelik grup kalenin inşasından sonra buraya sürgün edilenlerin torunlarıydı. Sürgün statüsünde iskân edildikleri için de başlangıçta ispence ve avârız gibi vergilerden muaf tutulmuşlardı, fakat sonradan gelen bir emirle ispence vergisini vermeleri kararlaştırılmıştı. Doksan yedi hânelik diğer grup ise kendi istekleriyle şehre yerleşenlerden oluşmaktaydı. Böylece şehrin bu tarihlerde askerî garnizon da dahil toplam 1400-1600 dolayında nüfusu bulunuyordu.
İlbasan XVI. yüzyıl boyunca hızla büyümesini sürdürdü. İtalyan seyyahlar 1570’te burayı, ovada büyük bir varoşu ve güçlü surları bulunan bir şehir olarak tanımlarlar. Bu ifadeleri 1569-1570 tarihli Tahrir Defteri kayıtlarıyla daha da detaylandırmak mümkündür. Buradaki bilgilerden anlaşıldığına göre 230 hâne nüfusu bulunan müslüman kesim yedi mahalleye dağılmış bir şekilde yaşıyordu. Hıristiyan nüfusu ise hemen hemen bir önceki tahrirde görülen sayıda olup 177 hâneden ibaretti. Müslüman nüfusta görülen hızlı artışın bir sebebi de hıristiyanların bir bölümünün din değiştirmesidir. Müslüman gruplar, civarındaki Draç ve Baştova kalelerine yönelik tehditler dolayısıyla buralardaki garnizona yardım etmekle görevli olduklarından avârızdan muaf idiler. Onlardan ayrıca civardaki âsi Arnavut gruplarını ıslah etmede de yararlanılmaktaydı. İlbasan hıristiyanlarından bir bölümü ise avârız muafiyeti karşılığı Shkumbin ırmağı köprüsünün bakımıyla görevlendirilmişti. Bu dönemde toplam nüfus tahminen 4500-5000 civarına ulaşmış bulunuyordu.
XVII. yüzyılda şehir ve kale hakkında en etraflı bilgiye Evliya Çelebi’nin eserinde rastlanmaktadır. Burayı büyük ve mâmur bir şehir olarak tavsif eden Evliya Çelebi kalenin düz zeminde kare şeklinde bir bina olduğunu, içinde 460 kadar evin bulunduğunu, fakat burası “iç il” kabul edildiğinden kalede muhafızların mevcut olmadığını, taşra varoş kesiminin çok büyük bir alanı kapladığını yazar. Ona göre bu kesimde bağlık ve bahçelik 1150 kadar ev, on sekizi müslümanlara, onu hıristiyanlara ait yirmi sekiz mahalle, kırk altı cami, 900 dükkân, üç imaret ve üç hamam vardı.
İlbasan’da İslâmî hayatın gelişmesinde Fâtih Sultan Mehmed tarafından yaptırılan cami bir merkez oldu. Ayrıca II. Bayezid burada bir imaret kurulmasını teşvik etti. Özellikle eski bir Bosnalı aileye (Borovinić) mensup olup kaptanıderyâlık ve Rumeli beylerbeyiliğinde bulunan Sinâneddin Yûsuf Paşa, en büyük hayrat sahibi olarak Rumeli beylerbeyiliği sırasında 1502’de şehirde bir zâviye ve muallimhâne inşa ettirmiş, bir de vakfiye düzenlemişti. Evliya Çelebi, Gazi Sinan Paşa’nın eski kalenin orta kesiminde büyük bir cami yaptırdığını yazar. Yine ona atfedilen bir imaretten ve Halvetî tekkesinden söz eder. Bu tekke şehirde mevcut on bir tekkenin en büyüğüydü; zengin vakıfları ve kalabalık dervişleri vardı. Öte yandan şehrin sur dışına doğru büyümesinin mahiyetine işaret eden birçok eser de mevcuttu. Bunların içinde 1607-1608 tarihli, surların güneyinde yer alan Hasan Bâlîzâde Camii (1978’de yıktırıldı), 1670 tarihli Bıçakçızâde Camii ve bir büyük hamam sayılabilir. Her üçü de 1970’li yılların başında bir park haline getirilen Uzunçarşı üzerinde yer alıyordu. 1599 tarihli Nâzır Camii ise daha güneyde yer almakta olup bugün hâlâ ayaktadır ve şehrin o dönemdeki yayılma mesafesi hakkında fikir verir.
XVIII. yüzyılda İlbasan, 30.000’e ulaşan nüfusuyla Arnavutluk’un büyük sanayi ve ticaret merkezlerinden biri oldu. Kültür hayatı da gelişme gösterdi, burada birçok şair ve yazar yetişti. Arnavutluk kesiminde mevcut tek mevlevîhânenin İlbasan’da bulunması da durumun açık bir göstergesidir. Burada yetişenler arasında Mevlevî derviş ve şairi Sümman (ö. 1055/1645) sayılabilir.
Diğer Arnavut şehirleri gibi İlbasan da XIX. yüzyılda Osmanlı hâkimiyetine karşı meydana gelen ayaklanmalardan olumsuz yönde etkilendi. 1832’deki olaylar sırasında kalesi tahrip edildi. Şehir uzun süre sakin ve hareketsiz kaldı. Prizren Vilâyeti Salnâmesi ’ne göre (1291/1874) burada otuz iki mahalle, yirmi beş cami, iki kilise, altı tekke, 480 dükkân ve iki hamam vardı. Kāmûsü’l-a‘lâm ’da ise XIX. yüzyılın sonlarına doğru şehirde 20.000 nüfus (3500’ü hıristiyan, 16.500’ü müslüman) bulunduğu kaydedilir.
1912’de Osmanlı idaresinden çıkan İlbasan II. Dünya Savaşı’nın ardından yeniden gelişmeye başladı ve önemli bir endüstri merkezi oldu. 1967’den sonra Sinan Paşa ve Nâzır camileri hariç diğer bütün camiler yıktırıldı. Eski kale duvarları, içindeki evler ve XVII. yüzyıldan kalma olup 1315’te (1897-98) yenilenen saat kulesi korunması gereken tarihî eserler olarak restore edildi. Komünist idarenin sona ermesiyle birlikte şehirdeki İslâmî hayat yavaş yavaş oluşmaya başlamıştır.
Osmanlı hâkimiyeti altına girdikten sonra Ohri sancağına bağlanan İlbasan kısa süre içinde müstakil bir sancak ve sancak merkezi haline geldi. Önceleri sancak İlbasan, İşbat (Shpat) ve Çermenika kazalarından oluşuyordu. 1501’den sonra buraya önemli liman şehri olan Draç da bağlandı. Kâtib Çelebi XVII. yüzyılda buranın kazalarını Ustruga (Struga), İstrarova (Starovo/Pogradec), Segin, İşbat, Peklin (Peqın) ve Draç olarak sayar. Tanzimat döneminde önce Prizren vilâyetine, ardından İşkodra’ya ve nihayet Manastır’a bağlandı. Şehrin ve bölgenin ekonomik ve sosyal tarihiyle ilgili birçok kadı sicili ve esnaf defteri bugün Tiran Millî Arşivi’nde bulunmaktadır.
BİBLİYOGRAFYA
BA, TD , nr. 367, s. 432; nr. 477, s. 400.
Tursun Bey, Târîh-i Ebü’l-Feth (nşr. Mertol Tulum), İstanbul 1971, s. 141-145.
Evliya Çelebi, Seyahatnâme , VIII, 716-730.
M. von Šufflay, Städte und Burgen Albaniens, hauptsächlich während des Mittelalters , Wien-Leipzig 1924, tür.yer.
Gökbilgin, Edirne ve Paşa Livâsı , II, 207-211.
Fr. Babinger, Aufsätze und Abhandlungen zur Geschichte Südosteuropas und der Levante , München 1962-66, I, 201-210; II, 51-89.
V. Buharaja, “Mbiskrimet Turko-Arabë te vendim tone si deshmi historike”, Konferenca e dyte e Albanologjke , Tirana 1969, II, 81-85.
Ayverdi, Osmanlı Mi‘mârîsi III-IV , s. 288-289.
Zija Shkodra, Esnafet Shqiptare (Shek, XV-XX) , Tirana 1973, s. 69, 89-219.
a.mlf., La ville albanaise au cours de la renaissance nationale , Tirana 1988, tür.yer.
a.mlf., “Le marché albanaise au XVIIIe siècle”, Studia Albanica , III/1, Tirana 1966, s. 159-172.
Machiel Kiel, Ottoman Architecture in Albania, 1385-1912 , İstanbul 1990, s. 108-137.
Ilarion Ruvarac, “Der Stadt Konjuch in den Serbischen Annalen”, Archiv für slavische Philologie , sy. 17 (1895), s. 568 vd.
Ivan Dujcev, “La conquête turc et la prise de Constantinople dans la littérature slave contemporaine”, Byzantinoslavica , XIV, Prague 1953, s. 52-53.
Selami Pulaha, “Matériaux en langue osmanoturque des archives albanaises concernant l’Albanie du XIe au XIXe siècle”, Studia Albanica , III/1, Tirana 1966, s. 187-198.
Hasan Kaleshi – Hans-Jürgen Kornrumpf, “Das Vilajet Prizren im 19. Jahrhundert”, SOF , sy. 26 (1967), s. 220 vd.
Gjerak Karaiskaj, “Kalaja e Elbasanit”, Monumentet , sy. 1, Tirana 1971, s. 61-77.
a.mlf., “Të dhëna të reja për datimin e kalasë së Elbasanit”, a.e. , sy. 3 (1972), s. 147-157.
Valter Shtylla, “Banjat e mesjetës së vonë në Shqipëri”, a.e. , sy. 7-8 (1974), s. 119-137.
Bu madde TDV İslâm Ansiklopedisi’nin 2000 yılında İstanbul’da basılan 22. cildinde, 79-81 numaralı sayfalarda yer almıştır.