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KÜRK Skip to content
Kökeni belli olmayan ve eskiden beri Türkçe’de kullanılan kelime hem işlenmiş hem de işlenmemiş tüylü hayvan derilerini ifade eder. Bu tür kürkler için Farsça pôst tabiri de kullanılmıştır. Kaynaklarda işlenmiş kürk giysiler Arapça ferve adıyla da anılır.
İnsanların tarih öncesi devirlerden beri soğuktan korunmak için hayvan postlarından yapılmış basit elbiseler giydikleri bilinmektedir. Medeniyet ilerledikçe kürk bir ihtiyaç olmaktan çıkıp lüks giyim malzemesi haline geldi. Özellikle Çin, Mısır, Yunan ve Roma medeniyetlerinde alımlı ve süslü kürkler zenginlik ve zarafet simgesi oldu. Eski Türkler’de de kürk kullanımının hayli yaygın olduğu elde edilen arkeolojik malzemelerden anlaşılmaktadır. Göktürkler’e ait buluntular içinde kürk elbiselere rastlanmıştır. Orta Asya ve Rus steplerinden İran ve Arap dünyasına da kürk gönderildiği ve bunun önemli bir ticarî kazanca yol açtığı belirtilir. Kuzey Rusya ve Slav bölgelerinden Anadolu ve Avrupa’ya kürk yollandığı bilinmektedir. XVI. yüzyılda kürk ticareti Kuzey Amerika-Avrupa, Rusya, Ortadoğu kesimlerinde hayli hareketlenmiştir. Kürk lüks giyim aksesuarı olarak bugün de kullanılmakta olup en değerli kürkler Kuzey Avrupa, Kuzey Amerika, Sibirya ve Hazar deniziyle Batı Çin arasındaki kesimlerden elde edilir.
Osmanlı Devleti’nde kürk, ilk zamanlarda daha çok soğuktan korunmaya yönelik bir ihtiyaç iken zamanla lüks haline gelmiştir. XV. yüzyılın ikinci yarısından itibaren giderek artan ve malî sıkıntıların ortaya çıkışıyla birlikte hükümet tarafından kontrol edilmeye çalışılan bu tüketim II. Mahmud zamanında yapılan yeniliklere kadar devam etmiştir. XVII. yüzyıl Osmanlı piyasasında samur/semmûr, vaşak (lynx pardina), zerdava (martes abietum), kakum/kakım (mustela erminea), tilki, kursak/karsak (vulpes corsac, Türkistan’dan Moğolistan’a kadar olan bölgede bulunan bir cins tilki, Karagan tilkisi), sansar, sincap, çılkafa/çalkafa (kurdun en-se postu), tavşan, göçen/kokarca, çakal, kuzu (kıvırcık, yalama, boğazlama türleriyle), kedi (saz, alaca Van ve siyah türleriyle) kürkleri görülmektedir. Bu postların hayvanın cins ve özelliğine göre sırt, kafa, nâfe, boyun, paça gibi kısımları ayrı ayrı ve her biri iki ya da üç kalitesiyle piyasada bulunurdu.
Giysiler için kullanılan en kıymetli kürkler yaklaşık değer sıralamasıyla siyah tilki, Sibirya gri sincabı, samur, elma yanağı (tilki postlarının yanak parçalarından yapılmış samura yakın değerde bir kürk), vaşak, zerdava ve kakum idi. Ancak Osmanlı piyasasında farklı malî düzeylere uygun çeşitli cins ve kalitede kürkler mevcuttu. XVII. yüzyıl ortalarında esnaf için tesbit edilmiş çeşitli kürk cinsleri samur kafası, samur paçası, Çerkez zerdavası, zerdava paçası, zerdava boğazı, kakum, Rumeli sansarı, sansar paçası, sansar boğazı, sincap, beyaz tilki boğazı, Azak nâfesi, Azak’ın siyah bedeni, tilki paçası, Göllükesrî’den gelen tilki nâfesi, Bosna çılkafası, Göllükesrî’den gelen çılkafa, Cezayir çakalı sırtı, Karaman çakalı, Cezayir çakalının ablağı idi (Kütükoğlu, s. 166-168).
İhtiyaç duyulan kürkler yerli piyasa dışında Rusya’dan temin edilirdi. Buradan gelen kürkler aynı cins yerli kürklerden çok daha kaliteli ve pahalıydı. Samur, vaşak, zerdava ve Rus tilkisi dışarıdan en sık gelen kürk cinsleriydi. Kırım’ın 1475’te Osmanlı idaresine girişi yol emniyetinin temini bakımından önemli olmuş ve bu ticaretin gelişmesinde rol oynamıştır. Yerli kürk olarak bilhassa vaşak ve zerdava önemli ölçüde iç piyasadan sağlanırdı. Yaya ve müsellemlerin avladıkları dışındaki vaşakların postları hass-ı şâhî olarak sancak beylerine tahsis edilmişti.
Kürkçülükle meşgul olan, biri kürk dikenler (postîn-dûzân), diğeri satışıyla uğraşanlar (kürk-fürûşân) olmak üzere iki farklı esnaf vardı. Kürkçü esnafı genellikle şehir çarşılarında satış yaparlardı. Kürk tüketimi bakımından önemli olan İstanbul’da eski bedesten (büyük bedesten / iç bedesten), Büyük Çarşı (Çarşı-i Kebîr / Kapalı Çarşı) ve sokak aralarındaki esnaf içinde kürkçü esnafı bulunduğu gibi ayrıca büyük tüccar ve toptan satıcılara ait özel bir han (Kürkçü Hanı) mevcuttu (Mantran, s. 112-117; Abdülaziz Bey, s. 137-140).
Halk arasında kürk giyimi yaygın olup evlilik geleneklerinden olarak kız evinden damada içinde kürk de bulunan bir kıyafet bohçası göndermek âdetti. Yaz mevsimi de dahil olmak üzere her mevsimde serin ve soğuk havalarda giyilen kürklerin muhafazası için piyasada özel kürk bohçaları satılırdı. Ayrıca Osmanlı yüksek ricâlinin konaklarında içinde ev sahibinin kürklerinin olduğu birer kürk odası bulunurdu. Sarayda kadınlar arasında da bilhassa kışlık kıyafet olarak kürk kullanılmıştır. Kadınefendiler sarayın içinde yazın manto, kışın kürk giyerlerdi. Kürk, devlet görevlilerine ait resmî kıyafetler arasında önemli bir yere sahipti. Normal günlerde, küçük merasimler ve büyük törenlerle alaylarda giyilmek üzere üç ayrı kıyafetleri olurdu. Gündelik kıyafet olarak sade kürkler giyilirken merasim ve büyük alaylarda renkleri, kumaşları ve bazan süslemeleriyle alımlı kürkler giyilirdi. Hil‘atlerin bir kısmı da kürk olup üst düzeydeki çeşitli görevlilere çoğunlukla kumaşla kaplanmış kürkler verilirdi (bk. HİL‘AT ).
Gerek hil‘atlerin gerekse ihtiyaç duyulan diğer kürklerin hazırlanması için sarayda terziler arasında kürk dikenler bulunurdu. XV. yüzyıl ortalarında bu saray terzilerinin tamamı yirmi üç kişi iken XV ve XVI. yüzyıllar boyunca giderek artmış, XVII. yüzyıldan itibaren ise azalmaya başlamıştır. Bunun sebebi sarfiyatın azalmış olması değil ihtiyaçların daha çok saray dışından temin edilmeye başlanmasıdır. XVIII. yüzyıl ortalarında saraydaki dikiciler on iki kişiydi. Bunlar diğer saray terzileri gibi tayin, azil ve idarî hususlarda iç hazinedarbaşıya bağlı, görev sorumlulukları bakımından ise hazine kethüdâsının kontrolünde idiler. Fâtih Sultan Mehmed zamanında (1451-1481) ortaya çıkan Hazine Odası’nın “bıçaklı” denilen kıdemli görevlilerinden ikinci sırada yer alan kürkçübaşı idi. Kürkçübaşının görevi araştırmalarda umumiyetle padişaha mahsus kürklerin muhafazası olarak gösterilirse de saraya giren ve iç hazineyi ilgilendiren bütün kürkleri kapsadığı söylenebilir.
XV. yüzyıl ortalarında Osmanlı devlet ricâli arasında farklı tipleriyle giyildiği görülen kürk kaftanların en değerlisi padişaha mahsus olup kürksüzleri de bulunan ve kollu veya kolsuz, geniş yakalı bir model olan kapaniçe idi. Yine padişaha mahsus oluşuyla tanınan, siyah tilki kürkü esas olmak üzere samur ve kakum gibi türler de kullanılmış ve kumaşı atlas, kürkü siyah tilki, düğmeleri süslemeli olanına “ferve-i murabba” denilmiştir. Padişaha mahsus olmakla beraber kapaniçe büyük bir teveccüh göstergesi olarak sadrazama, Kırım hanına ve Eflak, Boğdan voyvodalarına da giydirilmiştir. Kırım hanlarına giydirilenlerin bir kısmı ve Eflak, Boğdan voyvodalarına verilenlerin hemen tamamı kadifeye kaplı olurdu. Bazan uzun, bazan kalçayı örtecek şekilde kısa bir model olup daha ziyade Kırım hanlarıyla ileri gelenlerinin giydiği, dar kollu ve zengin süslemeli kontoş da kapaniçeye benziyordu.
Kapaniçeden sonraki en değerli kürk serâser kürk idi. İsmini kürkün kaplanmasında kullanılan, dokumasında baştan başa sim veya sırma bulunan kalınca ve oldukça kıymetli ipekli kumaştan almıştı. Modelinin erkân kürk tarzında olduğu, bu kürkün vezîriâzam, vezirler ve diğer bazı seçkin kimselere verildiği anlaşılmaktadır. Serâser kürkün “nîm-ten” denilen boyu kısa modelleri ise Kırım hanı ve rikâb ağalarına giydirilirdi.
XVII. yüzyıl kayıtlarına göre bol yenli bir model olan erkân kürk padişah, sadrazam, vezirler, şeyhülislâm, Rumeli ve Anadolu kazaskerleri, kadılarla diğer bazı ricâl tarafından ve genellikle önemli olmayan merasimler ve resmî günlerde giyilirdi. Elçilere de erkân modelde kürkler verilirdi. Daha büyük törenlerde vezîriâzam, vüzerâ, şeyhülislâm, sadreyn, nakîbüleşraf, mevâlî ve bazı müderrisler Muvahhidî kürk giyiyorlardı.
Boyu topuğa kadar, dar ve geniş yenli, süslü ve sade çeşitleriyle bunlar arasında en yaygın ve en sık kullanılan bir model olan ferace kürkler düşük derecedeki görevliler için merasim kıyafeti iken üst derecedekiler için normal bir giysi durumundaydı. Sarayda arz ağalarından silâhdar, rikâbdar ve çuhadarın giydiği kürk çeşidine “serhaddî” deniliyordu.
Resmî kıyafet olarak kullanılan kürklerin kaplanmasında çuha (beyaz, yeşil, kırmızı, elvan, sarı, turuncu) ve sof (beyaz, siyah, kırmızı vb.) başta olmak üzere genellikle kumâş-ı hân (XVIII. yüzyıl ortalarından itibaren), atlas, kadife, şal, şalî ve serâser gibi kumaşlar kullanılmıştır. Padişah kürklerinde de serâser, şal, atlas, kemhâ, çuha gibi kumaşlara rastlanmaktadır. Kumaşların renkleri oldukça çeşitliydi. Şeyhülislâmların kürkü beyaz kumaşla kaplı olduğu için “ferve-i beyzâ” diye meşhur olmuştur. Ancak zaman zaman şeyhülislâmlar yeşil kumaşa kaplı kürkler de giymişlerdir. Kırım hanı ve vezirler törenlere ve alaylara daha ziyade kırmızı renkli, elçiler ise umumiyetle sarı ve turuncu renk kumaşlarla kaplı kürklerle çıkmışlardır. Kürkler veriliş sebeplerine uygun şekilde de adlandırılmıştır. Meselâ mevâcib dağıtılmasının (mevâcib devri) ardından vezîriâzama gönderilen kürke “devr kürkü” denilmiştir.
Osmanlı resmî muhitlerinde en çok kullanılan kürk olduğu anlaşılan samura olan rağbet Sultan İbrâhim zamanında (1640-1648) artmıştır. Taşradaki idarecilere bütün köşk ve kasırların samur kürkleriyle döşenmesi emredilmiş, vüzerâ ile ulemâdan kıymetli düğmelerle süslenmiş, içi ve dışı samurdan yaptırılmış giysi modelinde birer adet kürk istenmiştir. XVIII. yüzyıla gelindiğinde hem resmî sarfiyattan hem de halkın kürk lüksünden şikâyet edilerek bazı tedbirler alınmış ve kısıtlamalar getirilmiştir. III. Osman ve III. Mustafa zamanlarında samur, kakum ve vaşak gibi devlet ricâline mahsus kürklerin başkaları tarafından giyilmesi yasaklanmıştır. III. Mustafa zamanında 1766’da hil‘atler ve hil‘at olarak giydirilen kürkler hususunda sarfiyatı azaltmak amacıyla yeni bir düzenleme yapılmıştır. Sadrazamla vezirler ve vezâret rütbesi olanlara hil‘at-i kumâş-ı hâna kaplı samur kürk (sadrazama üstlükle beraber); şeyhülislâm, Rumeli ve Anadolu kazaskerleri, nakîbüleşraf, İstanbul kadısı, imâm-ı evvel ve sânî-i şehriyârîler, şehzade hocası, hekimbaşı, silâhdar -rikâbdar- çuhadar gibi arz ağaları ile enderun haseki ağaları, rikâb ağaları, sadâret kethüdâsı, Tersâne-i Âmire emini ve bostancıbaşı ağaya çuha ferace samur kürk; Dârüssaâde ağasına üstlükle beraber olmak üzere hil‘at-i hâssü’l-hâssa kaplı samur kürk; şeyhlere bol yenli çuhaya kaplı sincap kürk verilecekti (selâtin camii şeyhlerine bazan samur ya da sincap çuha ferace de giydirilmiştir). Daha önceleri çeşitli kürk ve hil‘atler verilen elçilere de kürksüz hil‘at ve kaftanlar verilmesi uygun görülmüştür (BA, BEO , Sadâret Defterleri , nr. 356, vr. 121b ). Bu düzenleme ile ayrıca kapaniçe ve serâser kürklerin hil‘at olarak verilişi tamamen kaldırılmamışsa da mümkün mertebe azaltılmaya çalışılmıştır. II. Mahmud zamanında kıyafet hususunda yapılan yeni düzenlemelerle resmî kıyafet olarak kürk kullanımı ortadan kalkmıştır. 1237’de (1822) ulemâ ve vüzerâya mahsus bol yenli kakumlar dışındakiler, 6 Şevval 1244 (11 Nisan 1829) tarihli elbise nizamnâmesiyle de kalanların tamamı kaldırılmıştır.
Tekke kültüründe de postların özel bir yeri olup “post-nişîn, post nakibi” gibi ifadeler dilimize yerleşmiştir. Topkapı Sarayı’nda padişahların şahsî eşyaları arasında kayıtlı ve çoğu kemhâ veya keçe ile kaplanmış, bir kısmı ise kumaşsız postlar bulunmaktadır. Bunlar bazı kayıtlarda post seccadeler olarak yer almıştır. Tiftik keçisi, geyik, kurt ve leopar türleri bulunan bu postların tamamının seccade olarak kullanılmadığı bilinmektedir. Arz Odası eşyası içinde de iki leopar postu olup bunlar umumiyetle elçi kabullerinde tahtın iki yanına serilirdi (leopar postlarının güç sembolü olarak kullanılması hususunda bk. Tezcan, VI/22 [1999], s. 44; kürkle ilgili dinî hükümler için bk. DERİ ; HAYVAN ).
BİBLİYOGRAFYA
BA, MD , nr. 12, s. 65, hk. 144; nr. 27, s. 3, hk. 23; nr. 28, s. 348, hk. 882.
BA, KK , nr. 666.
BA, A.RSK , nr. 1497, s. 26, 29.
BA, BEO , Sadâret Defterleri , nr. 356, vr. 121b -145a .
Selânikî, Târih (İpşirli) , I, 8, 50, 113, 114, 145, 351, 352; II, 446, 584, 735, 756, 841.
Koçi Bey, Risâle (Aksüt) , s. 80.
Anonim Osmanlı Tarihi: 1099-1116/1688-1704 (haz. Abdülkadir Özcan), Ankara 2000, s. 213-216.
Teşrîfât-ı Kadîme , s. 126 ve hil‘at listeleri.
Cevdet, Târih , XII, 45.
Uzunçarşılı, Saray Teşkilâtı , s. 315-322, 461-464.
Safiye Ünüvar, Saray Hatıralarım , İstanbul 1964, s. 60.
D’Ohsson, XVIII. Yüzyıl Türkiyesinde Örf ve Âdetler (trc. Zerhan Yüksel), İstanbul, ts. (Tercüman 1001 Temel Eser), s. 91-92.
Mübahat S. Kütükoğlu, Osmanlılarda Narh Müessesesi ve 1640 Tarihli Narh Defteri , İstanbul 1983, s. 158-159, 165-168, 253-258.
Ahmet Akgündüz, Osmanlı Kanunnâmeleri ve Hukukî Tahlilleri , İstanbul 1992, I, 356, 413-414; II, 52, 69, 183, 205, 258; III, 105, 108-109; IV, 317, 389, 395; V, 137.
Robert Mantran, XVI-XVII. Yüzyıl’da İstanbul’da Gündelik Hayat (trc. Mehmet Ali Kılıçbay), İstanbul 1991, s. 22-23, 111-117.
Abdülaziz Bey, Osmanlı Âdet, Merasim ve Tabirleri (nşr. Kâzım Arısan – Duygu Arısan Günay), İstanbul 1995, s. 119-120, 137-140,164-165, 225.
Filiz Karaca, Tanzimat Dönemi ve Sonrasında Osmanlı Teşrifat Müessesesi (doktora tezi, 1997), İÜ Sosyal Bilimler Enstitüsü, s. 47, 110-116, 127-130.
Zeki Tekin, “Osmanlılar’da Kürk Kullanımı”, Türkler (nşr. Hasan Celal Güzel v.dğr.), Ankara 2002, X, 644-649.
a.mlf., “Osmanlı Devleti’nde Kürk Ticareti”, a.e. , X, 754-763.
Hülya Tezcan, “Osmanlı Sultanlarının Güç Sembolü; Postlar”, Ev Tekstili , VI/22 (Ağustos 1999), s. 42-44.
F. Viré, “Fanak”, EI2 (İng.) , II, 775.
Feridun Emecen, “İbrâhim”, DİA , XXI, 278-279.
Bu madde TDV İslâm Ansiklopedisi’nin 2002 yılında Ankara’da basılan 26. cildinde, 568-570 numaralı sayfalarda yer almıştır.