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Moda Markalarının SDG 12 Mesajlarının Genç Tüketiciler Algısındaki Rolü: Nitel Bir Araştırma Skip to content Yıl 2024, Sayı: 45, 52 – 75, 30.06.2024
Beyza Bekil Zeynep Genel
https://doi.org/10.17829/turcom.1374012
Öz Fast fashion has revolutionized the fashion industry with low-cost and fast-produced garments; however, this fast pace threatens environmental sustainability and triggers the climate crisis. As in other sectors, the fashion industry is expected to pioneer sustainable production and consumption practices in line with the sustainability goals. Communication plays a key role in sustainable consumption practices, and the United Nations (UN) recommends that brands develop communication campaigns that will raise awareness about sustainable consumption and create a sustainable fashion movement. In this regard, the present study examines the reflections of communication activities of fashion brands regarding sustainable production and consumption (SDG 12) on the sustainability and brand perception of young consumers aged 18- 25 living in Istanbul. In-depth interviews were conducted with 12 participants affiliated with various universities in Istanbul using a jungmental snowball sampling method. The data were analyzed through narrative analysis based on the Situational Theory of Problem Solving (STOPS). The study results revealed that most young consumers have a high level of knowledge and interest in sustainable consumption (SC). It was determined that although they were aware of the sustainability messages of fast fashion brands (FBBs), they held varying opinions in their purchasing decisions.
Anahtar Kelimeler SDG 12, Sustainable Consumption, Fast Fashion, Sustainability Communication, Situational Theory of Problem Solving
Proje Numarası 1919B012200565
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Anadolu Üniversitesi. García-Ortega, B., Galán-Cubillo, J., Montes, F. J. L. & Molina, B. d. M. (2023). Sufficient consumption as a missing link toward sustainability: The case of fast fashion. Journal of Cleaner Production, 399(2023), 1-13. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2023.136678 Grunig, J. E. (1977). Review of research on environmental public relations. Public Relations Review, 3(3), 36-58. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0363-8111(77)80212-9 Grunig, J. E. (1989). A situational theory of environmental issues publics and activists. L. E. Grunig (Ed.), Environmental activism revisited: The changing nature of communication through organizational public relations, special interest groups and the mass media içinde (ss. 50-82). North American Association for Environmental Education. Haider, M., Randall, S. & Mosch, G. P. (2022). Sustainable consumption research and the role of marketing: A review of the literature (1976–2021). Sustainability, 14(7), 3999. https://doi.org/10.3390/su14073999 Han, S. L.-C., Henninger, C. E. & Apeagyei, P. R. (2017). Determining effective sustainable fashion communication strategies. P. J. Claudia & E. Henninger (Ed.), Sustainability in fashion içinde (ss. 127-149). Palgrave Macmillan. Hassan, S. H., Yeap, J. A. & Kumaim, N. H. (2022). Sustainable fashion consumption: Advocating philanthropic and economic motives in clothing disposal behaviour. Sustainability, 14(3), 1875. https://doi. org/10.3390/su14031875 Ipsos. (2023). Sorumlu tüketim davranışları; Sosyo kültürel trend araştırması 23. 16.04.2024 tarihinde https:// www.ipsos.com/tr-tr/tuketicilerin-65i-daha-surdurulebilir-bir-yasam-icin-neler-yapmasi-gerektigini- bilmiyor adresinden erişilmiştir. İşçioğlu, T. E. & Yurdakul, D. (2018). İkinci el giyim motivasyonları ve sürdürülebilirlik üzerine keşifsel bir araştırma. Pazarlama Teorisi ve Uygulamaları Dergisi, 4(2), 253-280. Jha, S. K. & Veeramani, S. (2021). Sorting responsible business practices in fast fashion: A case study of Zara. Journal of Management and Policy, 12(2), 54-58. https://doi.org/10.47914/jmpp.2021.v12i2.004 Kalkan, G. (2024). The effects of messages framing and green logo usage on purchasing intention in sustainable fashion consumption. İzmir Ekonomi Üniversitesi. Kassarjian, H. H. (1971). Incorporating ecology into marketing strategy: The case of air pollution. Journal of Marketing, 35(3), 61-65. https://doi.org/10.1177/002.224.297103500310 Kim, J. N. & Grunig, J. E. (2011). Problem solving and communicative action: A situational theory of problem solving. Journal of Communication, 61(1), 129-140. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1460-2466.2010.01529.x Kim, J. N., Grunig, J. E. & Ni, L. (2010). Reconceptualizing the communicative action of publics: Acquisition, selection, and transmission of information in problematic situations. International Journal of Strategic Communication, 4(2), 126 – 154. Kim, J. & Grunig, J. (2019). Lost in ınformational paradise: Cognitive arrest to epistemic ınertia in problem solving. American Behavioral Scientist, 65(2), 213-242. https://doi.org/10.1177/000.276.42198782 Kim, J.-N. T. & Lee, H. (2022). The situational theory of problem solving (STOPS): Past, present and future. D. K. Pompper & K. C. Weaver (Ed.), The Routledge companion to public relations içinde (ss. 115-124). Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/978.100.3131700-11 Kim, J.-N. & Krishna, A. (2014). Publics and lay informatics: A review of the situational theory of problem solving. Annals of the International Communication Association, 38(1), 71–105. https://doi.org/10.1080 /23808.985.2014.11679159 Kim, S., Kim, J., Tam, L. & Kim, G. T. (2015). Inquiring into activist publics in chronic environmental issues: Use of the mutual-gains approach for breaking a deadlock. Journal of Public Affairs, 15(4), 404–422. https:// doi.org/10.1002/pa.1554 Kim, Y.-J. & Oh, K. W. (2020). Which consumer associations can build a sustainable fashion brand image? Evidence from fast fashion brands. Sustainability, 5(12), 1703. https://doi.org/10.3390/su12051703 Köse, Ş. G. & Aydın, K. (2020). Sürdürülebilir moda perakendeciliği: Tüketici algıları üzerine bir araştırma. Istanbul Business Research, 49(1), 86-116. https://doi.org/10.26650/ibr.2020.49.0099 Lan, L. H. & Watkins, J. (2022). Pre-owned fashion as sustainable consumerism? Opportunities and challenges in the Vietnam market. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 27(4), 577-579. https://doi. org/10.1108/JFMM-03-2022-0067 Lee, E. J., Choi, H. & Han, J. (2020). How to “nudge” your consumers toward sustainable fashion consumption: An fMRI investigation. Journal of Business Research, (117), 642-651. https://doi.org/10.1016/j. jbusres.2019.09.050 Liu, A., Baines, E. & Ku, L. (2022). Slow fashion is positively linked to consumers’ well-being: Evidence from an online questionnaire study in China. Sustainability, 14(21), 13990. https://doi.org/10.3390/su142113990 Liu, Y., Qu, Y. & Han, J. C. (2017). Understanding the evolution of sustainable consumption research. Sustainable Development, 25(5), 414-430. https://doi.org/10.1002/sd.1671 Major, M. A. (1993). Environmental concern and situational communication theory: Implications for communicating with environmental publics. Journal of Public Relations Research, 5(4), 251-268. https:// doi.org/10.1207/s1532754xjprr0504_02 McDonald, S. M. (2011). Perception: A concept analysis. International Journal of Nursing Knowledge, 23(1), 2-9. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1744-618X.2011.01198.x McKinsey & Company. (2020). Moda tutkunları sürdürülebilir markalar istiyor raporu. 23.05.2022 tarihinde https://www.mckinsey.com/tr/our-insights/fashion-enthusiasts-want-sustainable-brands adresinden erişilmiştir. McNeil, J. R. & Engelke, P. (2016). The great acceleration: An environmental history of the anthropocene since 1945. Harvard University Press. OECD. (2017). 10 learning areas SDG communication. 10.04.2024 tarihinde https://www.oecd.org/dev/pgd/ DevCom_10_Learning_Areas_SDG_Communications.pdf adresinden erişilmiştir. Öztürk, M. (2017). Sürdürülebilir gelişme odaklı eğitim: Kuramsal çerçeve. Elementary Education Online, 16(4), 1-11. http://dx.doi.org/10.17051/ilkonline.2017.342997 Pace, S. (2008). YouTube: An opportunity for consumer narrative analysis? Qualitative Market Research: An International Journal, 11(2), 213-226. https://doi.org/10.1108/135.227.50810864459 PwC. (2021). Tüketici dünyasının geleceği raporu. 23.05.2022 tarihinde https://www.pwc.com.tr/tuketici- dunyasinin-gelecegi adresinden erişilmiştir. Radharkishan, S. (2018). Sustainable consumption and production patterns in fashion. M. A. Gardetti & S. S. Muthu (Ed.), The UN sustainable development goals for textile and fashion industry içinde (ss. 59-75). Springer. Riesgo, S. B., Lavanga, M. & Codina, M. (2022). Drivers and barriers for sustainable fashion consumption in Spain: A comparison between sustainable and non-sustainable consumers. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 16(1), 1-13. https://doi.org/10.1080/17543.266.2022.2089239 Roh, S. & Oh, H. J. (2021). Toward a holistic approach for nuanced public segmentation: Social vigilantism and the situational theory of problem solving (STOPS). Journal of Public Relations Research, 33(2), 106-129. https://doi.org/10.1080/1062726X.2021.200.7929 Ruppery-Stroescu, M., LeHew, M., Connell, K. Y. & Armstrong, C. M. (2015). Creativity and sustainable fashion apparel consumption. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 33(3), 167–182. https://doi. org/10.1177/0887302X15579990 Sburlino, M. (2019). Fashion as a matter of values on how a transformative educating process can initiate a positive change. S. S. Muthu (Ed.), Sustainable fashion: Consumer awareness and education içinde (ss. 53-75). Springer. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-1262-5_3 Shin, K.-A. & Han, M. (2016). The role of negative emotions on motivation and communicative action: Testing the validity of situational theory of problem solving in the context of South Korea. Asian Journal of Communication, 26(1), 76-93. https://doi.org/10.1080/01292.986.2015.1083597 Stern, B. B., Thompson, E. & Arnould, E. (1998). Narrative analysis of a marketing relationship: The consumer’s perspective. Psychology & Marketing, (15), 195-214. https://doi.org/10.1002/(SICI)1520- 6793(199805)15:3%3C195::AID-MAR1%3E3.0.CO;2-5 Strateji ve Bütçe Başkanlığı. (t. y.). On ikinci kalkınma planı. 10.04.2024 tarihinde https://onikinciplan.sbb.gov. tr/ adresinden erişilmiştir. Tamer, N. (2013). Sürdürülebilir tüketim açısından giysi satın alma elden çıkarma davranışında güdüsel satın alma ve materyalist eğilim ilişkisi üzerine bir araştırma [Yayınlanmamış yüksek lisans tezi]. Galatasaray Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Enstitüsü. 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Moda Markalarının SDG 12 Mesajlarının Genç Tüketiciler Algısındaki Rolü: Nitel Bir Araştırma Yıl 2024, Sayı: 45, 52 – 75, 30.06.2024
Beyza Bekil Zeynep Genel
https://doi.org/10.17829/turcom.1374012
Öz Hızlı moda, düşük maliyetli ve hızlı üretilen giysilerle moda endüstrisinde bir devrim yaratmıştır, ancak bu hız çevresel sürdürülebilirliği tehdit ederek iklim krizini tetiklemektedir. Sürdürülebilirlik hedefleri doğrultusunda diğer sektörlerde olduğu gibi moda sektöründen de sürdürülebilir üretim ve tüketim pratiklerine öncü olmaları beklenmektedir. İletişim, sürdürülebilir tüketim pratikleri için kilit role sahip olup, Birleşmiş Milletler (BM), markaların sürdürülebilir tüketim konusunda farkındalık yaratacak ve sürdürülebilir bir moda akımı yaratacak iletişim kampanyaları geliştirmelerini önermektedir. Bu doğrultuda çalışmamızın amacı, moda markalarının sürdürülebilir üretim ve tüketim (SDG 12) kapsamında yaptıkları iletişim faaliyetlerinin İstanbul’da yaşayan 18-25 yaş arası genç tüketicilerin sürdürülebilirlik ve marka algısına yansımasını incelemektir. Yargısal kartopu örnekleme stratejisi ile İstanbul’daki çeşitli üniversitelerden 12 katılımcı ile derinlemesine görüşmeler yapılmıştır. Veriler, Durumsal Problem Çözme Teorisi (STOPS) ışığında, anlatı analizi yöntemiyle değerlendirilmiştir. Araştırma sonuçları, genç tüketicilerin çoğunun sürdürülebilir tüketim (ST) konusunda yüksek bilgi ve ilgi düzeyine sahip olduklarını göstermiştir. Hızlı moda markalarının (HMM) sürdürülebilirlik mesajlarının farkında olmalarına rağmen satın alma kararlarında farklı görüşlere sahip oldukları tespit edilmiştir.
Anahtar Kelimeler SDG 12, Hızlı Moda, Sürdürülebilirlik İletişimi, Durumsal Problem Çözme Teorisi, Sürdürülebilir Tüketim
Destekleyen Kurum TÜBİTAK 2209 A Programı
Proje Numarası 1919B012200565
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Anadolu Üniversitesi. García-Ortega, B., Galán-Cubillo, J., Montes, F. J. L. & Molina, B. d. M. (2023). Sufficient consumption as a missing link toward sustainability: The case of fast fashion. Journal of Cleaner Production, 399(2023), 1-13. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2023.136678 Grunig, J. E. (1977). Review of research on environmental public relations. Public Relations Review, 3(3), 36-58. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0363-8111(77)80212-9 Grunig, J. E. (1989). A situational theory of environmental issues publics and activists. L. E. Grunig (Ed.), Environmental activism revisited: The changing nature of communication through organizational public relations, special interest groups and the mass media içinde (ss. 50-82). North American Association for Environmental Education. Haider, M., Randall, S. & Mosch, G. P. (2022). Sustainable consumption research and the role of marketing: A review of the literature (1976–2021). 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Sorting responsible business practices in fast fashion: A case study of Zara. Journal of Management and Policy, 12(2), 54-58. https://doi.org/10.47914/jmpp.2021.v12i2.004 Kalkan, G. (2024). The effects of messages framing and green logo usage on purchasing intention in sustainable fashion consumption. İzmir Ekonomi Üniversitesi. Kassarjian, H. H. (1971). Incorporating ecology into marketing strategy: The case of air pollution. Journal of Marketing, 35(3), 61-65. https://doi.org/10.1177/002.224.297103500310 Kim, J. N. & Grunig, J. E. (2011). Problem solving and communicative action: A situational theory of problem solving. Journal of Communication, 61(1), 129-140. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1460-2466.2010.01529.x Kim, J. N., Grunig, J. E. & Ni, L. (2010). Reconceptualizing the communicative action of publics: Acquisition, selection, and transmission of information in problematic situations. International Journal of Strategic Communication, 4(2), 126 – 154. Kim, J. & Grunig, J. (2019). Lost in ınformational paradise: Cognitive arrest to epistemic ınertia in problem solving. American Behavioral Scientist, 65(2), 213-242. https://doi.org/10.1177/000.276.42198782 Kim, J.-N. T. & Lee, H. (2022). The situational theory of problem solving (STOPS): Past, present and future. D. K. Pompper & K. C. Weaver (Ed.), The Routledge companion to public relations içinde (ss. 115-124). Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/978.100.3131700-11 Kim, J.-N. & Krishna, A. (2014). Publics and lay informatics: A review of the situational theory of problem solving. Annals of the International Communication Association, 38(1), 71–105. https://doi.org/10.1080 /23808.985.2014.11679159 Kim, S., Kim, J., Tam, L. & Kim, G. T. (2015). Inquiring into activist publics in chronic environmental issues: Use of the mutual-gains approach for breaking a deadlock. Journal of Public Affairs, 15(4), 404–422. https:// doi.org/10.1002/pa.1554 Kim, Y.-J. & Oh, K. W. (2020). Which consumer associations can build a sustainable fashion brand image? Evidence from fast fashion brands. Sustainability, 5(12), 1703. https://doi.org/10.3390/su12051703 Köse, Ş. G. & Aydın, K. (2020). Sürdürülebilir moda perakendeciliği: Tüketici algıları üzerine bir araştırma. Istanbul Business Research, 49(1), 86-116. https://doi.org/10.26650/ibr.2020.49.0099 Lan, L. H. & Watkins, J. (2022). Pre-owned fashion as sustainable consumerism? Opportunities and challenges in the Vietnam market. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 27(4), 577-579. https://doi. org/10.1108/JFMM-03-2022-0067 Lee, E. J., Choi, H. & Han, J. (2020). How to “nudge” your consumers toward sustainable fashion consumption: An fMRI investigation. Journal of Business Research, (117), 642-651. https://doi.org/10.1016/j. jbusres.2019.09.050 Liu, A., Baines, E. & Ku, L. (2022). Slow fashion is positively linked to consumers’ well-being: Evidence from an online questionnaire study in China. Sustainability, 14(21), 13990. https://doi.org/10.3390/su142113990 Liu, Y., Qu, Y. & Han, J. C. (2017). Understanding the evolution of sustainable consumption research. Sustainable Development, 25(5), 414-430. https://doi.org/10.1002/sd.1671 Major, M. A. (1993). Environmental concern and situational communication theory: Implications for communicating with environmental publics. Journal of Public Relations Research, 5(4), 251-268. https:// doi.org/10.1207/s1532754xjprr0504_02 McDonald, S. M. (2011). Perception: A concept analysis. International Journal of Nursing Knowledge, 23(1), 2-9. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1744-618X.2011.01198.x McKinsey & Company. (2020). Moda tutkunları sürdürülebilir markalar istiyor raporu. 23.05.2022 tarihinde https://www.mckinsey.com/tr/our-insights/fashion-enthusiasts-want-sustainable-brands adresinden erişilmiştir. McNeil, J. R. & Engelke, P. (2016). The great acceleration: An environmental history of the anthropocene since 1945. Harvard University Press. OECD. (2017). 10 learning areas SDG communication. 10.04.2024 tarihinde https://www.oecd.org/dev/pgd/ DevCom_10_Learning_Areas_SDG_Communications.pdf adresinden erişilmiştir. Öztürk, M. (2017). Sürdürülebilir gelişme odaklı eğitim: Kuramsal çerçeve. Elementary Education Online, 16(4), 1-11. http://dx.doi.org/10.17051/ilkonline.2017.342997 Pace, S. (2008). YouTube: An opportunity for consumer narrative analysis? Qualitative Market Research: An International Journal, 11(2), 213-226. https://doi.org/10.1108/135.227.50810864459 PwC. (2021). Tüketici dünyasının geleceği raporu. 23.05.2022 tarihinde https://www.pwc.com.tr/tuketici- dunyasinin-gelecegi adresinden erişilmiştir. Radharkishan, S. (2018). Sustainable consumption and production patterns in fashion. M. A. Gardetti & S. S. Muthu (Ed.), The UN sustainable development goals for textile and fashion industry içinde (ss. 59-75). Springer. Riesgo, S. B., Lavanga, M. & Codina, M. (2022). Drivers and barriers for sustainable fashion consumption in Spain: A comparison between sustainable and non-sustainable consumers. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 16(1), 1-13. https://doi.org/10.1080/17543.266.2022.2089239 Roh, S. & Oh, H. J. (2021). Toward a holistic approach for nuanced public segmentation: Social vigilantism and the situational theory of problem solving (STOPS). Journal of Public Relations Research, 33(2), 106-129. https://doi.org/10.1080/1062726X.2021.200.7929 Ruppery-Stroescu, M., LeHew, M., Connell, K. Y. & Armstrong, C. M. (2015). Creativity and sustainable fashion apparel consumption. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 33(3), 167–182. https://doi. org/10.1177/0887302X15579990 Sburlino, M. (2019). Fashion as a matter of values on how a transformative educating process can initiate a positive change. S. S. Muthu (Ed.), Sustainable fashion: Consumer awareness and education içinde (ss. 53-75). Springer. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-1262-5_3 Shin, K.-A. & Han, M. (2016). The role of negative emotions on motivation and communicative action: Testing the validity of situational theory of problem solving in the context of South Korea. Asian Journal of Communication, 26(1), 76-93. https://doi.org/10.1080/01292.986.2015.1083597 Stern, B. B., Thompson, E. & Arnould, E. (1998). Narrative analysis of a marketing relationship: The consumer’s perspective. Psychology & Marketing, (15), 195-214. https://doi.org/10.1002/(SICI)1520- 6793(199805)15:3%3C195::AID-MAR1%3E3.0.CO;2-5 Strateji ve Bütçe Başkanlığı. (t. y.). On ikinci kalkınma planı. 10.04.2024 tarihinde https://onikinciplan.sbb.gov. tr/ adresinden erişilmiştir. Tamer, N. (2013). Sürdürülebilir tüketim açısından giysi satın alma elden çıkarma davranışında güdüsel satın alma ve materyalist eğilim ilişkisi üzerine bir araştırma [Yayınlanmamış yüksek lisans tezi]. Galatasaray Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Enstitüsü. Tao, W., Hong, C., Tsai, W. S. & Yook, B. (2021). Publics’ communication on controversal sociopolitical issues: Extending the situational theory of problem solving. Journal of Applied Communication Research, 49(1), 44-65. https://doi.org/10.1080/00909.882.2020.1849770 Tütüncüoğlu, A. M. (2018). Sürdürülebilirlik kavramının perakende pazarı çerçevesinde moda alanında reklam iletişimi unsuru olarak kullanımı analizi [Yayınlanmamış yüksek lisans tezi]. Bahçeşehir Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Enstitüsü. UNEP & UNFCCC. (2023). Sustainable fashion communication playbook. 17.05.2024 tarihinde https://www. unep.org/resources/publication/sustainable-fashion-communication-playbook adresinden erişilmiştir. World Commission Report. (1987). Report of the World Commission on environment and development: Our common. 15.07.2023 tarihinde https://digitallibrary.un.org/record/139811?v=pdf adresinden erişilmiştir. Yücel, S. & Tiber, B. (2018). Hazır giyim endüstrisinde sürdürülebilir moda. Tekstil ve Mühendis, 25(112), 370- 380. https://doi.org/10.7216/130.075.9920182511211 Younas, A., Fabregues, S., Durante, A., Escalante, E. L., Inayat, S. & Ali, P. (2023). Proposing the miracle narrative framework for providing thick description in qualitative research. The International Journal of Qualitative Methods, (22), 1-13. https://doi.org/10.1177/160.940.69221147162 Zedong, L. (2014). The situational theory of problem solving: New development of the situational theory of publics. Chinese Journal of Journalism & Communication, 36(2), 164-176. Toplam 62 adet kaynakça vardır.
Ayrıntılar Birincil Dil Türkçe Konular Çevresel İletişim, Kitle İletişimi Bölüm Araştırma Makaleleri Yazarlar Beyza Bekil OKAN ÜNİVERSİTESİ 0009-0001-2365-861X Türkiye
Zeynep Genel OKAN ÜNİVERSİTESİ 0000-0002-3140-0053 Türkiye
Proje Numarası 1919B012200565 Yayımlanma Tarihi 30 Haziran 2024 Gönderilme Tarihi 11 Ekim 2023 Kabul Tarihi 2 Mayıs 2024 Yayımlandığı Sayı Yıl 2024 Sayı: 45
Kaynak Göster APA Bekil, B., & Genel, Z. (2024). Moda Markalarının SDG 12 Mesajlarının Genç Tüketiciler Algısındaki Rolü: Nitel Bir Araştırma. Türkiye İletişim Araştırmaları Dergisi (45 ), 52-75. https://doi.org/10.17829/turcom.1374012
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