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SORGUÇ Skip to content Türk ve İslâm tarihinde başlıklara takılan süslere verilen ad.
Sorguç Türkçe’de bazı kuşların tepesinde bulunan uzun tüylere denir. Kelime zamanla kavuk, örf, destar, amâme, yûsufî, selîmî, horasânî, yatırtma, fes adı verilen her türlü erkek ve iç mekânlarda kullanılan kumaş, çiçek, çeşitli işlemelerle hazırlanan, hotoz adı verilen kadın başlıklarının üzerine takılan çeşitli mücevher veya kıymetli tüylerden yapılmış bir süsün adına dönüşmüştür. Kadın ve erkek başlıklarından başka at başlıklarına da sorguç takılmıştır. Bu süslerin başlıkta yerleştiği kısım dip, sorguç ve sorguçluk olarak isimlendirilmiştir.
Safevî, Bâbürlü, Timurlu, Osmanlı gibi başlık kullanan pek çok Türk ve müslüman topluluklarında hükümdar ve şehzadeler başlık üzerine sorguç takarlardı. Osmanlı padişahları cülûs, bayram ve düğün gibi merasimlerde veya cuma selâmlığı gibi alayla şehir içine çıktıkları zaman başlıkları üzerinde mücevherli ve tüylü sorguçlar bulunurdu. Özellikle sefere giderken padişah ve devlet adamları sarık üzerine sorguç takar, askerî teşkilât içinde de muhzır, peyk, şâtır ve solaklarla alaylara katılan müteferrikalar, kumandan mevkiinde olanlar, mehter takımı mensupları tüylü sorguçlarını başlıklarına koyarlardı. Yeniçeri başlıklarının alın üst tarafında tüy yerleştirilen kısma “tüylük” de denilirdi. Mücevveze vb. sarıklı başlık giyen görevliler sarıkları üzerine tek tüyden yapılmış sorguç yerleştirirlerdi. XV. yüzyıl Osmanlı tarihçisi Neşrî, II. Mehmed dönemi olaylarını aktarırken askerlerin başlarına telli yünler sokup sorguç yaptıklarını ve bu sorguçlar sayesinde padişahın etrafında durdukları zaman onu görünmekten koruduklarını yazar (Cihannümâ , II, 817). Bu durum özellikle padişahın etrafındaki korumaları olan solakların başlıklarına çok geniş, yelpazeyi andıran sorguçlar takmalarının anlamını açıklar.
Padişah başlıklarında kullanılan sorguçlar elmas, zümrüt, yakut, inci gibi kıymetli taşlarla bezenmiş olurdu. Sarığa sokulmak üzere alttan bir iğne kısmı, yanlardan tutturmak için her iki yanda ince ucu kancalı zincirler vardı. Sorguçlarda en değerlisi turna teli, sonra balıkçıl tüyü olmak üzere şahin ve deve kuşu tüyleri de kullanılmıştı. Bu tüylerden birkaç tanesi bir arada yerleştirilir ve uç kısımları yelpaze gibi açılırdı. Padişah sorguçlarında daha kısa tutularak mücevherli top, gül ya da çeşitli biçimler üzerine yerleştirilirken solak, çorbacı gibi askerlerin başlıklarında bu tüyler çok uzun tutulur ve bu yelpazemsi şekildeki sorguçlara süpürge sorguç adı verilirdi. A. Galland, XVII. yüzyıl sonunda şâtırların kullandıkları siyah sorguçların başlıklarına birer mücevherle tutturulduklarını yazmaktadır (İstanbul’a Ait Günlük Hâtıralar , I, 229). Bunların mücevherli olanları penç, gül ve top sorguç gibi adlarla tanımlanırdı. Ayrıca yine telli, telsiz, Anadolu harcı, Rumeli harcı, üçü bir yerde turna teli gibi isimlerle de tarif edilmişlerdir. Kıymetli kuş tüylerinden yapılan sorguçlar başlıktaki sarığın büklümleri arasına sokulur, bazıları püskül gibi aşağı sarkar veya dik olarak yerleştirilip yukarıya doğru verilirdi. Padişah başlarındaki tüy sorgucun uç kısmına minik ve hafif taşlar yerleştirildiği de olurdu. Meselâ II. Selim’i ok atarken gösteren tasvirde başlığındaki mücevherli tüy sorguçların nasıl yerleştirildiğini tesbit etmek mümkündür. Yine II. Selim’in başka bir minyatürü, hem tüy sorgucun hem mücevherli sorgucun bir arada kullanıldığını gösteren en iyi örneklerden biridir. Tüylü sorguç bir saçak gibi başlık kıvrımları arasından sol tarafına dökülürken mücevher gövdeli bir diğeri dik olarak yerleşmiştir. Padişahlar genellikle en fazla üç sorgucu bir arada kullanmıştır. Çok sorguçlu sarıklarda biri tüy, biri mücevher, biri mücevher dip ve saplı dik tüy sorguçtur (telli yün). XVI. yüzyıldaki bu sorguç kullanma biçimleri için bir diğer örnek III. Murad’ın portre tasvirindedir. XIX. yüzyıldaki kıyafet değişikliklerinden sonra da hükümdarlar fes başlık üzerine alnın üst kısmına gelecek şekilde mücevher sorguçlar kullanmayı sürdürmüşlerdir. Ayrıca padişah cenazelerinde tabut üzerine konulan başlığın üstüne de sorguç yerleştirildiği bilinmektedir. Kanûnî Sultan Süleyman’ın cenazesini gösteren minyatürde kavuk üzerine yerleştirilmiş üç sorguç dikkati çeker. III. Murad’ın cenaze tasvirinde ise bir tek siyah püskül biçimli sorguç vardır. III. Osman’ın cenazesinde tabutun üzerine yûsufî tabir edilen küçük selîmî ve bir siyah sorguç yerleştirilmiştir.
Üst düzey devlet görevlileri alaylarda ve bilhassa seferlerde sorguç takmakla birlikte gündelik hayatta kullanım yaygın bir âdet değildi. Osmanlı devlet adamlarına padişahın ve sadrazamın bir iltifat olarak hil‘at giydirmesi âdeti vardı. Sorguç verilmesi ise daha üst düzeyde bir iltifat olup çok özel durumlarda padişah tarafından sadrazama veya devlet adamlarına yönelikti. Meselâ 1599’da Damad İbrâhim Paşa’ya Macaristan seferine gönderildiği zaman üç sorguç ve hil‘atler verilmişti (Selânikî, II, 807). Sadrazam serdâr-ı ekrem olarak tayin edildiğinde padişah, sancağı Bâbüssaâde önünde merasimle kendisine teslim ederdi. XVIII. yüzyıl ve sonrasında sancak teslim edildikten sonra üzerine iki sorguç konulmuş selîmî başlıkla samur kürklü has hil‘at verilirdi. Sefer dönüşü sancak tesliminde sadece hil‘at giydirilir, sorguç verilmezdi (Teşrifatîzâde Mehmed, vr. 88a ). Düğün ve bayram gibi vesilelerle alınıp verilen hediyeler arasında sorguç da vardır. Ayrıca yabancı devlet adamlarına hediye olarak sorguç gönderildiğine dair kayıtlar bulunmaktadır. 1640 tarihli Narh Defteri ’ne göre beylerbeyiler ve gazilerin üç lâleli sırmalı telsiz sorguç, çavuşların deve kuşu ablağı ve timar sahiplerinin üçü bir yerde turna teli sorguç kullandıkları kaydedilmiştir (Kütükoğlu, s. 223-224). Sadrazam alayında maiyetinde yürüyen çorbacılar ve muhzırlar tüy sorguçlu başlıkları ile alayın en göz alıcı kısmını oluştururdu.
Safevî hükümdarları, şehzadeleri ve önde gelen ricâlinin de sorguç takındığı bilinmektedir. Safevîler döneminde İranlılar’ın sarık içine giydikleri kırmızı sikkelere bazan sorguç denilmekle beraber bunlar aslında sorguç değildir. Sarık kenarına büklüm içine yerleştirdikleri tüyler sorguç tanımına uygundur. Sikke ve sorgucun birlikte nasıl kullanıldığına dair pek çok örnek vardır (Roxburgh, s. 216, 232, 246, 247). Çiçekli mücevherli sorguçlardan başka Osmanlılar’ın kullandıkları sorguçlara benzer şekilde tüy sorguçların mevcudiyeti dikkati çeker. Meselâ 1596’da Şah Abbas’ın elçisi olarak İstanbul’a gelen Erdebil Hanı Zülfikar Han yuvarlak bir başlık üzerine murassa‘ balıkçın sorguç takmıştı (Selânikî, II, 639). Bâbürlü hükümdarları ve yüksek sınıf mensupları mücevher ve tüy sorguçtan başka başı çerçeveleyen inci vb. süsler kullanırlardı. Şah Cihan’ın portresini gösteren bir tasvirde hükümdar sarığının arkasında mücevherli tüylü sorguç vardır ve iki ayrı sıra halinde inci çelengle sarılmıştır (Rogers, s. 101).
Osmanlılar’da atlar için kullanılan sorguçların raht hazinesinde muhafaza edildiği anlaşılmaktadır. Çeşitli biçimlerde hazırlanan bu sorguçlar, 1717 tarihli Raht Hazinesi Defteri ’ne göre kovalı ve pençeli olarak kaydedilmiştir. Sorguçları imal eden esnaf sorguççu adıyla biliniyordu. Bunlar İstanbul çarşı esnafı içinde yer alırdı. Ayrıca Osmanlı saray teşkilâtına bağlı olan ehl-i hiref teşkilâtı içinde de sorguççu esnafı bulunuyordu. Osmanlı padişah sorguçları Has Oda ağalarından olan tülbend ağası sorumluluğunda olup Enderun Hazinesi’nde muhafaza edilir, gerektiğinde kullanılıp tekrar yerine konurdu.
BİBLİYOGRAFYA
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Neşrî, Cihannümâ (Unat) , II, 817.
Ârifî Fethullah Çelebi, Süleymannâme , TSMK, Hazine, nr. 1517, vr. 115b .
Feridun Ahmed Bey, Nüzhetü’l-esrâri’l-ahbâr der Sefer-i Sigetvar , TSMK, Hazine, nr. 1339, vr. 110b , 111a .
Selânikî, Târih (İpşirli) , I, 46-47, 50, 101, 409; II, 612, 639, 807.
Lokmân b. Hüseyin, Kıyâfetü’l-insâniyye fî şemâili’l-Osmâniyye , Ankara 1987, vr. 73a .
a.mlf., Târîh-i Sultan Süleyman , Dublin Chester Beatty Library, nr. 413, vr. 115b .
Hezarfen Hüseyin Efendi, Telhîsü’l-beyân fî Kavânîn-i Âl-i Osmân (haz. Sevim İlgürel), Ankara 1998, s. 147.
Teşrifatîzâde Mehmed, Defter-i Teşrîfât , İÜ Ktp., TY, nr. 9810, vr. 88a .
A. Galland, İstanbul’a Ait Günlük Hâtıralar: 1672-1673 (nşr. Ch. Schefer, trc. Nahid Sırrı Örik), Ankara 1987, I, 229.
İsmail H. Baykal, Enderun Mektebi Tarihi , İstanbul 1953, tür.yer.
Mübahat S. Kütükoğlu, Osmanlılarda Narh Müessesesi ve 1640 Tarihli Narh Defteri , İstanbul 1983, s. 223-224.
J. M. Rogers, Mughal Miniatures , New York 1993, s. 101.
Zeynep Tarım Ertuğ, Onaltıncı Yüzyıl Osmanlı Devletinde Cülûs ve Cenaze Törenleri , Ankara 1999, s. 133-143.
a.mlf., “Osmanlılar’da Teşrifat / Ceremony and Protocol at the Ottoman Court”, Türk Dünyası Kültür Atlası: Osmanlı Dönemi / A Cultural Atlas of the Turkish World: Ottoman Period , İstanbul 1999, I, 428-477.
Padişahın Portresi: Tesavir-i Âl-i Osman , İstanbul 2000, s. 222-223, 259.
D. J. Roxburgh, The Persian Album, 1400-1600: From Dispersal to Collection , New Haven 2005, s. 216, 232, 246-247.
Bu madde TDV İslâm Ansiklopedisi’nin 2009 yılında İstanbul’da basılan 37. cildinde, 378-380 numaralı sayfalarda yer almıştır.