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USTULÇE Skip to content Bosna-Hersek’te tarihî bir kasaba.
Hersek’in güneyinde yer alan Stolac kasabasının Osmanlı dönemindeki adıdır. Hersek’in merkezi Mostar’dan 35 km. kadar güneyde, deniz seviyesinden 65 m. yükseklikte dağlarla çevrili bir havzada bulunmaktadır. Mostar-Dubrovnik ve Čapljina-Bileća yollarının üzerindeki Ustulçe kasabasının tarihi Ortaçağ’lara kadar iner. İlk defa 1375’te Vidoški Grad adıyla zikredilir; bu sırada küçük bir idarî bölge olan Vidovo Polje’nin merkezidir. 1444’te kalenin alt tarafındaki yerleşme Podstolac ismiyle geçer. 1466’da Osmanlılar tarafından ele geçirilen Ustulçe’nin Slavca “stol” (koltuk) kelimesinden türediği, kasabanın hemen dışında Ošanići’de Sv. Petar ve Pavle adlı küçük Ortodoks kilisesinin yanında, Miloradović ailesinin asilleriyle Hersek Dükü Stefan’ın oturup halkın şikâyetlerini dinlediği, kayaya oyulmuş bir koltuğun bu adla ilgisi olduğu düşünülür. Kasaba önemli bir ticaret limanı sayılan Dubrovnik’ten Balkanlar’ın içine doğru uzanan kervan yolu üzerindedir.
Ustulçe, Osmanlı döneminde daha evvel boşaltılmış küçük bir kale olan Vidoški Grad’ın kalıntılarının üzerine önce bir mezraa şeklinde yeniden iskâna açıldı (1468’de on bir ve 1477’de on sekiz hıristiyan hâneli), XVI. yüzyılda bir köy halinde büyüdü ve bir sonraki asırda kasabaya dönüştü. 1499 tarihli tahrir kaydında burası “Karye-i İstolac tâbi-i Viduşka” şeklinde geçer. Kilerci Yûnus’un zeâmetine dahil bulunan köyde kırk hıristiyan hânesine karşılık sekiz müslüman hânesi ortaya çıktı (BA, KK , nr. 697, vr. 14a ). Bu durum kasabada yavaş yavaş İslâmlaşmanın başladığına işaret eder. 936 (1530) tarihli Muhasebe Defteri ’nde bu yerleşmede on sekiz müslüman, otuz dokuz hıristiyan hânesinin mevcudiyeti belirtilir. Yerel nüfusun İslâmlaşma sürecine Hersekli nüfusun büyük bir bölümünün eskiden Bogomil olması, Ortodoks ve Katolik otoritelerinin şiddetli zulmüne mâruz kalması ve Yavuz Sultan Selim’in bir cami inşa ettirmesi kısmen yardım etti. Bu caminin temelleri 2001’de, 1788 yılında oldukça büyütülmüş olan Hünkâr Camii’nin altında bulunmuştur. 1585’te kasabanın 107 hânesinin % 74’ü müslüman olarak kaydedilmişti. Hakkında fazla bilgi bulunmayan Silâhdar Hüseyin Paşa tarafından 1530-1585 yılları arasında bir han, misafirhane ve hamamın yaptırılması, yine aynı kişi tarafından Sultan Selim Camii Mektebi’ne bir hoca tayin edilmesi Ustulçe’nin fizikî bakımdan bir müslüman kasabası haline gelmesinin başlangıcını oluşturur. Silâhdar Hüseyin vakfın mütevellisi ve XVIII. yüzyılda Ustulçe “kaptanlığı”nı üstlenen Šarić ailesinin atasıdır. Hamam 1993’e kadar mevcuttu. 1745’te inşa edilen Šarić ailesinin büyük konağı hâlâ ayaktadır. 1626’da Vatikan ajanı Athanasio Georgiceo, çevresinde 150 silâhlı adamı seferber edebilecek birçok evin bulunduğu kale kalıntılarından bahseder. O sırada bu küçük kasaba 500-600 civarında bir nüfusa sahipti; bu rakam 1585’te 470 dolayındaydı.
1664’te Venedik’e karşı Girit savaşı sürerken Ustulçe’yi ziyaret eden Evliya Çelebi kasabayı etraflı şekilde tasvir eder. Burada bir cami, üç mescid, küçük bir hamam, bir han, yirmi dükkân, on su değirmeni ve meyve bahçeleri içinde 270 taş ev olduğunu yazar. Düşman korkusu yüzünden pek çok ev gayet iyi tahkim edilmişti. Burayı “güzel bir kasabacık” ifadesiyle tanımlayan Evliya Çelebi, bir gün önce Venedik’in Kotor bölgesinden gelen 5000 kişilik bir hıristiyan grubunun (uskok) kasabayı yağmaladığını ve pek çok müslümanı köle olarak alıp götürdüğünü, yakılan bazı evlerden hâlâ duman çıktığını belirtir. Kısa bir süre sonra Hersek Valisi Sührâb Mehmed Paşa saldırganları tuzağa düşürüp esir alınan 300 kişiyi kurtardı. Yine Girit savaşları sırasında Bajo Pivljanin öncülüğünde Karadağlı büyük bir çete grubu, Ustulçe’nin 20 km. kadar doğusundaki Predolya kasabasına saldırıp şehri tahrip etti. Şehir hiçbir zaman yeniden inşa edilmedi, bugün sadece on evin bulunduğu küçük bir köy konumundadır. Ustulçe, Predolya’nın yıkımından kazançlı çıktı. 1100-1200 civarında sakiniyle bölgenin en büyük yerleşim birimi haline geldi. Evliya Çelebi’nin hıristiyanların varlığından söz etmemesi, kasabanın nüfusunun tamamıyla müslümanlardan oluştuğuna işaret eder. Bununla beraber harabe durumdaki Ortaçağ dönemi kalesinden de bahsetmez.
1683-1699 savaşları döneminde Hersek bölgesine yönelik saldırılar arttı. Ağustos 1687’de Nikola Novković komutasındaki 5800 kişilik askerî birlik Ustulçe bölgesi müslümanları tarafından bozguna uğratıldı. 1106’da (1694-95) başka bir Venedik kuvveti Radnica yakınlarında bir savaşta yenildi, birliğin kumandanı, bayrakları ve silâhları ele geçirildi. Bu olayların hiçbirinde Ustulçe’deki müstahkem mevki veya kaleden bahsedilmemiştir. 1699 Karlofça Antlaşması’ndan sonra Ortaçağ dönemine ait Ustulçe Kalesi’nin kalıntıları yeniden ele alınıp büyük ölçüde genişletildi. Aynı zamanda daha güneydeki Trebinje adlı küçük mezraada tamamen yeni bir şehir kuruldu. Ustulçe’de yeni binalar yapıldı. Hacı Ali Salihović 1730’da Bregava nehrinin kıyısına Hamam mahallesinde bir cami inşa ettirdi. Hacı Sâlih Bure 1145’te (1732-33) Podgrad mahallesinde cami yaptırdı. Cami 1227’de (1812) Ali Ağa (daha sonra Hersek’in ünlü veziri Ali Paşa Rıdvanbegoviç) tarafından yenilendi. Kitâbesi şair ve Ustulçe Kadısı İbrâhim Vehbi Zekić tarafından yazılmıştır. 1154’te (1741) Kaptan İsmâil Šarić, Kumluk mahallesinde yeni bir cami, Ustulçe çarşısında yirmi dükkân inşa ettirdi ve 83.000 akçe bağışladı. Kaptan İsmâil 1731-1761 yıllarında Ustulçe’nin askerî kumandanı idi. Vakfiyesi Saraybosna’daki Vakıflar Müdürlüğü’nde mevcuttur. Ustulçe Kalesi 1760’ta cephane deposuna isabet eden bir yıldırımla büyük ölçüde tahribata uğradı. 1760-1762 yıllarında kale yeniden yapıldı ve bugünkü âbidevî boyutlarını kazandı. Yavuz Sultan Selim zamanından kalma (1519) Careva (Hünkâr) Camii XVIII. yüzyılda yetersiz kalınca 1203’te (1788-89) büyütüldü ve geniş ölçüde yeniden inşa edildi. Caminin güzel bir şadırvanı olup hazîresinde Ustulçe’nin önemli ailelerinin üyeleri (Ljubović, Šarić ve Rıdvanbegović gibi) gömülüdür. Caminin kitâbesinde kurucu olarak “Cenâb-ı hazret-i Sultan Selim, Mısır fâtihi” ibaresi geçer.
XVIII. yüzyılın ilk yarısında, 1833-1851 yıllarında Hersek veziri olan Ali Paşa Rıdvanbegoviç buraya hâkim oldu. 1813-1814’te Ustulçe kaptanı/mutasarrıfı sıfatıyla babasının yerini almıştı. Şubat 1832’de Ustulçe âsi Gradaçaçlı Kaptan Hüseyin’in askerleri tarafından kuşatıldı, fakat teslim alınamadı. 1867’de Rus âlimi ve diplomatı Aleksandar Giljferding, Ustulçe’yi ziyaret ettiğinde burası 3500 kişilik nüfusa sahipti ve önceki durumuna göre daha da büyümüştü. Osmanlı yönetiminin son döneminde Ustulçe’nin Sırp Ortodoks cemaati şehrin doğu tarafında zarif bir kilise inşa etti. 1878-1918 yıllarındaki Avusturya işgali devrinde daha önce Ustulçe’de bulunmayan Katolik cemaati için büyük bir kilise yapıldı. Müslümanların çoğunun göçmesinden dolayı nüfusu azaldı. 1910’da 423 müslüman hânesi ve çoğu Hırvatlar’la meskûn 203 hâne vardı. II. Dünya Savaşı’ndan önce nüfusunun üçte ikisinin müslüman olduğu Bosna-Hersek’in en sevimli ve romantik yerlerinden biriydi. 1918’de Ustulçe ve bütün Hersek yeni Yugoslavya Devleti’ne dahil edildi. Ustulçe son dönem divan şairlerinden Hersekli Ârif Hikmet’in doğum yeridir.
II. Dünya Savaşı’ndan hemen sonra Ustulçe’nin 2320 sakini vardı. 1948-1991 yılları arasında yeni endüstri tesislerinin kurulmasıyla nüfus iki katına çıktı. Bununla birlikte kırsal nüfus durgunlaştı ya da bölgedeki Mostar, Bileća, Trebinje gibi şehirlere yönelen göçten dolayı azaldı. 1991-1995 Bosna savaşı yıllarında Ustulçe büyük zarar gördü. 1991’de 5530 kişilik nüfusu vardı, bunun % 62’si müslüman, % 20’si Sırp, % 12’si Hırvat’tı. 1993 yazının başında Hırvat ordusu Ustulçe’yi sürpriz bir saldırı ile aldı ve etnik bakımdan tamamen Hırvat Katolik bir şehir haline getirmek istedi, müslümanlar sürüldü ve tüyler ürpertici şartlar altında toplama kamplarına kondu. Hırvat ordusu mevcut altı caminin beşini havaya uçurdu, kalıntılarını buldozerlerle dağıttı. Bu camilerin hepsi şehir merkezinde bulunuyordu. Kumluk mahallesinin uzağındaki Sarıca Camii ateşe verildi, büyük bölümü çatısız halde ayakta kaldı. Bununla birlikte Katolik ve Sırp kiliseleri hasar görmemişti. Dayton Antlaşması’ndan yedi yıl sonra 2002-2003’te Ustulçe’nin hemen hemen bütün müslüman cemaati ve bağlı köylerin ahalisi dahil 14.000 kişi evlerine geri döndü. Şehre yerleşenler Sultan Selim Camii’ni yeniden inşa ettiler. Mehmet Müezzinoviç’in yayınından hareketle (Islamska Epigrafika , III, 365-389) önemli tarihî kitâbeler tekrar yapıldı ve önde gelen ailelerin eski mezar taşları cami avlusuna yerleştirildi. 2005’te Šarić Camii dikkatlice ve ince zevkle restore edilip tekrar ibadete açıldı. 2006’nın yazında Ali Paşa Rıdvanbegoviç (Podgradska) Camii de (a.g.e. , III, 370-373) aynı itina ile yeniden inşa edilmeye başlandı ve 2010’da tamamlandı. Hamam mahallesinde bulunan Ustulçe’nin dördüncü camisi Hacı Ali Salihović Camii’nin inşası 2008’de tamamlandı. 2006’nın yazında Rıdvanbegoviç ailesinin konaklarından biri olan Begova saray kompleksi restore edildi. 1745’lerde yapılan Careva Camii yakınındaki İsmail Ağa Šarić mâlikânesinin (a.g.e. , III, 382) restorasyonu 2007 baharında başlatılıp 2010’da tamamlanmıştır. Böylece Ustulçe yeniden canlı bir merkez haline geldi.
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a.mlf., “Stolačko Polje”, a.e. , VIII, 160.
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Bu madde TDV İslâm Ansiklopedisi’nin 2012 yılında İstanbul’da basılan 42. cildinde, 193-195 numaralı sayfalarda yer almıştır.