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ZİŞTOVA Skip to content Bulgaristan’da Tuna kıyısında tarihî bir şehir.
Bulgaristan’da Tuna nehrinin aşağı kıyısında Niğbolu ve Rusçuk arasında küçük bir liman şehridir. Bugün Svištov şeklinde anılır. Osmanlılar’da Ziştovi olarak bilinir. Tuna’nın güney kıyısındaki yüksek tepelerin yamaçları üzerinde kurulmuştur ve nehrin ötesine Romanya içlerine kadar uzanan bir görüş alanına sahiptir. Bizans-Bulgar Ortaçağı’nda ve Osmanlı hâkimiyetinin ilk asırlarında fazla önem taşımamakla beraber XVIII ve XIX. yüzyıllarda önemli bir gelişme kaydetmiş, bir el sanatları ve ticaret merkezi durumuna gelmiştir.
Ziştova’nın ilk iskân yeri şimdiki şehrin 4 km. güneyindeki Novae’dir. Burası I. yüzyılda Roma ordusunun büyük bir askerî üssüydü. Daha sonra 2 kilometreden uzun olan bir şehir suru, bir pazar yeri, hamamları ve büyük bir ordu karargâhı ile orta büyüklükte bir kasabaya dönüştü. Novae coğrafî konumu dolayısıyla pek çok defa el değiştirdi. Sıkça göçebe kavimlerin saldırısına uğradı. 441’de Hunlar şehri tahrip etti ve ardından yeniden inşa edildi. Procopius’tan nakledildiğine göre kasabayı son olarak İmparator I. Iustinianos (527-565) yeniledi. 600 yılı civarında Slavlar ve Avarlar tarafından tekrar yıkıldı ve ortadan kalktı. Bulgar şehir tarihçisi Margarita Harbova’ya göre bu kadim yerleşme yeriyle Ortaçağ döneminde tekrar kurulan şehir arasında bir sürekliliğin bulunduğuna dair hiçbir delil yoktur. Bu yeni şehir, 950’den sonra Tuna Bulgaristanı’nı yeniden kontrolleri altına alan Bizanslılar tarafından kurulan Sebastopolis’ti. X. yüzyılın sonundan XIII. yüzyıla kadar Bizans para ve seramik buluntuları, XIII ve XIV. yüzyıllardan itibaren de Bulgar kazıma (sgrafitto) seramikleri ve paralarının ortaya çıkması bu yeni yerleşime şahitlik eder. XII. yüzyılın ortasında kasabayı Arap coğrafyacısı Şerîf el-İdrîsî Subestkastro adıyla kaydetmiştir. Şehir 1385’te Osmanlılar’ın bölgeye gelmesinden hemen önce Eflak’a doğru Tuna’yı geçen Alman gezginleri Peter Sparnau ve Ulrich von Tennstaedt tarafından Zvista kasabası şeklinde anılır. 1396’da genç Alman şövalyesi Hans Schiltberger, Osmanlı esiri olarak şehre uğradı ve burayı Schiltaw adıyla kaydetti.
Osmanlı öncesi Ziştova yedi yüksek kulesi olan, küçük fakat sağlam, sarp bir tepeye inşa edilmişti ve alt tarafında açık bir mahalle bulunan ve Tuna’ya bakan bir kaleye sahipti. Mahalle 3 hektar civarında bir alana yayılmıştı. Garnizon dahil hektar başına 150 kişi düştüğüne göre nüfusun 500-600 civarında olduğu söylenebilir. Bu nüfusla XV. yüzyılda Ziştova bulunduğu “kaza”nın en büyük yerleşim yeriydi. Osmanlı tarihçisi Neşrî’nin naklettiğine göre Vezîriâzam Çandarlı Ali Paşa’nın 1388’deki kış seferi esnasında Ziştova Kalesi birkaç günlük direnişin ardından teslim oldu ve yerli halkın şehirde kalmasına izin verildi. O zamandan beri kullanılan kiliselerin ikisi bugün hâlâ ayaktadır. Ziştova, Osmanlı idaresine girdiğinde bir kaza merkezi haline getirildi. 1444’te Varna Savaşı esnasında Haçlı birliklerince yıkılan yerlerden biri de Ziştova idi. Bundan daha yıkıcı olanı ise 1461-1462 kışında Eflak Voyvodası Vlad Tepeş’in (Kazıklı Voyvoda) uyguladığı imha savaşı idi. Macar Kralı Matthias Corvinus’a gönderilen 11 Şubat 1462 tarihli bir mektupta Vlad kesik başlarını saydığı Türk ve Bulgarlar’dan 23.889 kişiyi öldürmekle övünüyordu (Ziştova bölgesindeki Novgrad, Batin ve Pirgos kalelerinde 384, Ziştova’da 410 ve Niğbolu ile Gigen’de 1138 kişi). 1479 senesine ait bir Osmanlı tahrir kaydı (Sofia National Library, O. A. K. 45/29) Vlad’ın sayıyı abartmadığını gösterir. Ziştova arazisi hemen hemen boşalmıştı ve yeniden iskân edilmesi gerekiyordu. Söz konusu kayıtta bir dizdarın kumandasında sekiz kişiden oluşan bir garnizonun bulunduğu, kale dışındaki kısımda 200 hıristiyan ve beş müslüman hânesinin yer aldığı belirtilir.
1479-1516 yılları arasında Ziştova kazasının kır kesiminde önemli değişiklikler meydana geldi. Bölgeye yoğun şekilde Türk nüfusu yerleşmeye başladı. 1485 yılı civarında bölgenin bir tahriri yapılmışsa da günümüze ulaşan parça defterde Ziştova ve köyleri kısmı eksiktir. 1479’da Ziştova kazasında 258 hâneye sahip on bir köy bulunuyordu. Köylerin sadece ikisinde müslüman yerleşimciler vardı (Yaycı Pınarı’nda beş ve Cervena Krusa’da altı hâne). 1516 tarihli Mufassal Tahrir ’e göre ise köy sayısı yirmi bire çıktı. 1479-1485 yılları arasında dördünde de müslüman yerleşimcilerin bulunduğu Batak, Kara İsa, Koyun Öyük ve Sarıyer köyleri kurulmuştu. Mevcut diğer üç köy ise Bulgarca isimler taşıyordu (Gorna Studena, Stišarov ve Varzulica/Virzil); fakat oralarda da Türkler yerleşmişti. Bu köylerin sakinleri İslâm’a girmiş Bulgarlar değil deftere kayıtlı adların da gösterdiği üzere Anadolu’dan gelen Türk yerleşimcilerdi. Bu yerleşim yerleri, 1444’te Haçlılar ya da büyük ihtimalle 1462’de Vlad Tepeş tarafından ortadan kaldırıldı; ancak adları mahallî olarak hatırlanan köyler olmalıdır. Buralara yerleşen Türkler mevcut adları kendi dillerine uygun hale getirmişlerdi (İstişar ve Virzil gibi).
1485-1516 yıllarında Akçeyar, Burunlu, Çatma, Habibli, Karaman ve Tatar adlı Türk köylerine rastlanır. Bunlar bir önceki kayıtlarda yer almayan yeni kurulmuş köylerdir. Pavli adlı köy de yeni bir yerleşmeydi. Ziştova yakınında 1479’da mezra olarak söz edilen Tsarev Kladenets köyü yeniden canlandı. Müslüman ve hıristiyanlardan karışık bir nüfusu vardı. Müslümanların çoğu o sıralarda ihtida edenlerdi. Zaman içinde köye aynı anlama gelecek şekilde Tekfur Pınarı adı verildi. 1478-1516 arasında kazanın hıristiyan nüfusu 380 hâneden 729 hâneye yani iki katına çıktı. Öte yandan müslüman nüfus da yirmi altı hâneden 504 hâneye, yani neredeyse yirmi katına yükseldi. Bu hânelerin ancak % 6’sı ihtida edenlere aitti. 1516 tarihli Mufassal Defter (BA, MAD , nr. 11) Ziştova kasabasının 303 hânesinden (tah. 1500 kişi) yalnız on üç kişinin müslümanlardan oluştuğunu gösterir. Bunlara dört kişilik kale muhafızları dahildir. Hıristiyan nüfus beş mahallede yaşıyordu ve bu mahallelerin dördü birer papaz tarafından yönetiliyordu. Bu da kasabanın o sırada dört kilisesinin bulunduğuna işaret eder.
1550 ve 1579-1580 yıllarına ait tahrirler (BA, TD , nr. 416; TK, TD , nr. 58) Türk iskânının sona erdiğini gösterir. Ancak kasabanın ve köylerin nüfusu artmaya devam etti. Kazanın nüfusu 1550’deki 1721 hâneden 1580’de 2532 hâneye yükseldi, bunun da yarıdan fazlası müslümandı. 1595’e gelindiğinde kasaba 411 hânelik sivil bir nüfusa sahipti (tah. 2100 kişi) ve bunun sadece yetmiş-sekseni müslümandı. XVI. asrın son yıllarında kasaba ve kaza savaş yüzünden zarar gördü. 1595’te Eflak ve Boğdan Voyvodası Cesur Michael büyük bir ordu ile Tuna Bulgaristanı’nda göründü. Ziştova’yı tamamen tahrip etti, ancak kaleyi alamadı. Ele geçirdiği bütün müslümanları katletti, hıristiyan nüfusu da Eflak’a sürdü. Üç yıl sonra aynı olay bir defa daha tekrarlandı. 1591’e ait Cizye Defteri ’nde 1371 hıristiyan hânesinin Ziştova bölgesinde bulunduğu kayıtlı iken 1601’de sadece 855 hâne kalmıştı. Aynı zamanda Eflak kaynakları da bu sırada sürülen hıristiyanların sayısını verir. Müslüman kayıpları için her iki tarihte de herhangi bir sayı mevcut değildir. Ancak 1052 (1642) tarihli Mufassal Avârız Defteri (BA, TD , nr. 745), Ziştova ve kazasında 1367 müslüman hânesinden, 1099 reâya ve askerî müslüman hânesinin varlığından söz eder. Bu da 1598-1642 arasında meydana gelmesi beklenen iyileşmeye rağmen ulaşılan sayıyı gösterir.
1062’de (1652) Evliya Çelebi gördüğü Ziştova’yı kısaca tasvir eder: Kalesi sarp bir tepe üzerindedir, yedi yüksek kulesi vardır; içinde bir dizdar evi, bir cami, garnizon evleri, yeterli miktarda mühimmat ve bir miktar şâhî top bulunur. Tuna’nın kıyılarında ve etraftaki vadilerin üzerinde güzel bahçeler içindeki 300 hâneden oluşan bir varoşu mevcuttur. Orada da bir cami, bir han ve birkaç mütevazi iş yeri vardır. 1697’de Macar seyyahı Janos Komaromi, Ziştova’dan “içerisinde Bulgarlar’ın ve Türkler’in yaşadığı büyük bir şehir” diye bahseder. Komaromi’ye göre kale bakıma muhtaç durumdadır. XVIII. yüzyılda ise Ziştova’nın statüsünde önemli bir değişim gerçekleşti; Lofça ve Tırnova kasabalarıyla birlikte 1710’da, III. Ahmed’in annesi Gülnûş Emetullah Sultan’ın Üsküdar İskelesi’ndeki külliyesinin (Yeni Vâlide) vakfı haline getirildi. Adı geçen kasabaların yönetimi, Vâlide Sultan ve onun ölümünden sonra vakıf tarafından tayin edilecek bir voyvodanın eline bırakıldı. Vakfın sorumlusu kızlar ağası idi. Bunların en önemlisi Hacı Beşir Ağa’dır. İstanbul, Eyüp, Medine ve Bağdat’ta kütüphaneleri bulunan Beşir Ağa 1740’ta Ziştova’da bir medrese ve kütüphane yaptırdı. Üç yıl sonra Ali oğlu Elhac Mahmud şehirde bugün hâlâ ayakta duran heybetli bir cami ve bir mektep inşa ettirdi. Şair Hâfız’ın (Edirneli Şeyh Hâfız Efendi olmalıdır) eseri olan orijinal Osmanlı kitâbesi zamanımıza ulaşmıştır. Bartınlı İbrâhim Hamdi’nin 1750’lerde yazdığı eserinde Ziştova’daki dört camiden söz edilir. Ziştova’nın korunan en önemli Osmanlı âbidesi olan saat kulesi 1765-1766 yıllarında şehrin voyvodası Ali oğlu Hüseyin Ağa tarafından dikildi. Ardından bu şehirde dünyaya gelen ve sonraları paşa olan Ali Ağa (Ziştovalı Ali Paşa) şehrin voyvodası oldu, 1174’te (1760-61) Silistre valisi iken öldü. Aynı zamanda Polonya’ya elçi sıfatıyla gittiği bilinen ilk kişidir. Hüseyin Ağa’nın kulenin yapılış tarihini veren kitâbesi oldukça aşınmıştır, ancak hâlâ korunmaktadır. Şair Şefîkî’nin güzel bir hatla yazılmış büyük kitâbesi, 1286’da (1869-70) Hacı Abdullah Ağa tarafından gerçekleştirilen restorasyon hakkında bilgi verir. Günümüzde kule “koruma altında bir anıttır” ve Bulgar eseri olarak takdim edilir; her iki kitâbe metni de görmezden gelinir.
1768-1829 yılları arasında Osmanlı Kuzey Bulgaristanı, Ruslar ve onların müttefiki Habsburglar’la yapılan uzun savaş yılları boyunca ağır tahribata uğradı. 1791’de başarısız olan Habsburglar burada Ziştova Antlaşması ile barış yaptılar. 1810’da bir sonraki savaş esnasında Michail Kutuzov kumandasında geri çekilen Rus ordusu, o zaman Ruslar’ın elinde bulunan Tuna boyundaki Osmanlı kalelerinin tamamını imha etme emri aldı. Ziştova istihkâmları yerle bir edildi, neredeyse bütün kasaba yandı. Söylendiğine göre savaş öncesinde kasabada 15.000 kişi vardı. Ticaret ve sanat merkezi olan kasaba ardından süratle toparlandı. Ancak köylerden gelen yoğun göç ve Tırnova ile onun yakınındaki Arbanassi’den gelenlerin yerleşimi sebebiyle değişime uğradı. Yahudi tüccarları da kasabaya yerleşmişti. Türkler’in yanı sıra burada mevcut Bulgar, Yunan ve Eflak mahalleleri kasabanın kozmopolit karakterini gösterir. 1845’lerde, daha fazla güvenliğe kavuşmayı uman köylerdeki müslümanların şehre göçmesiyle kır alanında müslüman nüfusu % 35’e geriledi. Kasabanın 1751 tarihli Mufassal Avârız Defteri ’ne göre % 19’u müslümanken bu oran 1845’te % 44, 1873’te % 48 dolayındaydı.
1826’da Adolf Kunike, Ziştova’yı 4000 hâneli, canlı bir ticaret merkezi ve 21.000 sakini bulunan bir şehir olarak niteler. Onun verdiği rakamlar 1810’dan önceki durumu yansıtır. Kunike bir tepe üzerinde gördüğü eski kalenin yıkıntılarını zarif bir şekilde tasvir eder. 1834’te ise buradaki pamuk üretiminden, tabakhâneden ve gelişen bir ticaretten bahsedilir. Kırım Savaşı’ndan (1853-1854) sonra Osmanlı hükümeti kazanın köylerindeki müslüman unsuru dört köyle takviye etmeye çalıştı: Kafkaslar’dan gelen 206 sığınmacı hâne ile Fethiye ve Kenevir, aynı şekilde 149 Çerkez hânesiyle de Midhat Paşa ve Lutfiye köyleri ortaya çıktı. Bunun yanı sıra metruk müslüman köyü Červena’ya yetmiş iki Çerkez ailesi yerleştirildi. Bulgar tarih yazımında, Rusya’nın ilhak ettiği Kafkaslar’dan gelen müslüman mültecilerin yerleşimleri Bulgarlar için bir tehdit gibi anlatılır. Halbuki müslüman unsurun oranı gerçekte % 5 kadar yükselmişti. 1877-1878’deki yıkıcı Rus-Türk Savaşı’nın arefesinde Tuna vilâyetinin çeşitli salnâmelerinde ve Avrupalı gezginlerin notlarında Ziştova 13.000 sakini, on dokuz camisi, dört kilisesi, bir sinagogu, bir hamamı, on sekiz kervansarayı, 738 dükkânı ve 170 mağazası bulunan bir kasaba şeklinde tasvir edilir. Ziştova kazasında ise kırk köy vardı ve Aubaret’e göre (1876) kasaba ile birlikte 3580 müslüman, 4450 gayri müslim hânesine sahipti (% 44’ü müslüman). Kasabanın da üçte birinden fazlası müslümanlardan meydana geliyordu.
1878’de Bulgaristan bağımsız bir devlet haline geldikten sonra kasabanın nüfusu ve görünümü büyük ölçüde değişti. Birkaç yıl içerisinde müslümanların yarısından fazlası Anadolu’ya göç etti; kasaba durgunlaştı. 1934’te nüfus 12.082 idi ve bu Osmanlılar’ın son dönemlerindeki nüfuslarından bile daha azdı. Aynı şekilde 1887’deki Bulgar nüfus sayımının da altındaydı (o zaman kasabada 8725 Bulgar, 3016 Türk yerleşimci ve 170 kişiden oluşan bir yahudi cemaati vardı). 1925 sayımında Türkler’in ve Bulgarlar’ın sayısı azaldı, yahudi cemaati ise neredeyse tamamen yok oldu. Müslümanlarla birlikte onların evleri de süratli bir şekilde ortadan kaldırıldı. II. Dünya Savaşı’nın ardından kasaba yeni endüstriler (özellikle gıda ve kimya sanayii) sayesinde gelişti. 1965’teki nüfus sayımında 21.522 nüfusa sahipti, 1985’te ise 30.550 kişi yaşıyordu, bu nüfus günümüzde 35.000’i geçmiştir. Civar köylerle birlikte bölge nüfusu 70.000’i bulmaktadır. Bunların arasında Türkçe konuşan küçük bir müslüman azınlık da vardır.
1873’te on dokuz camisi olan kasabada 1970’te hâlâ ayakta kalabilen sadece iki cami vardı. Osmanlı döneminde mevcut altı kilise ise bugün ayaktadır: Saint Dimitri (en eskisidir), Saints Peter ve Paul (1644), Prorok Iliya (1835), Preobraženie (1835-1836), Sv. Troica (1865-1867) ve Kiril i Metodi (1874). Bunlar sadece Ziştova’daki hıristiyan toplumunun kadim mirasının bir şahidi değil aynı zamanda Osmanlılar’ın din politikasının güzel bir aynasıdır. 1878’den sonra Hacı Beşir Ağa Medresesi ve Kütüphanesi hiçbir iz bırakılmaksızın ortadan kaldırıldı; ancak bazı kitaplarının henüz kayıtsız ve çalışılmamış olsa da korunduğu bildirilmektedir. Büyük Batak köyü dikkate alınmazsa ova üzerinde hiçbir müslüman iskânı yoktur. Camileri, tekkeleri ve mektepleri de yıkılmıştır.
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Bu madde TDV İslâm Ansiklopedisi’nin 2013 yılında İstanbul’da basılan 44. cildinde, 465-467 numaralı sayfalarda yer almıştır.